Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this

Doat

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Well other than the 10mm allen socket with a breaker bar, nothing lol. I thought you meant the stripped bolt my mistake.
 

IJ.

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Doat;1852556 said:
Well other than the 10mm allen socket with a breaker bar, nothing lol. I thought you meant the stripped bolt my mistake.
No probs was just checking as the Craftsman kit you posted was for normal bolts and I wasn't sure if you still had the original bolts or maybe someone had swapped in some ARP Bolts (hex head)

One of the methods I posted in the other thread will work for sure, can't comment on the "kits" as I've never tried them so you'll be the guineapig for that
 

Doat

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The 7/16th inhex socket? and just so I understand why you chose that size is it a little bit larger than the 10mm allen socket?
 

Doat

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Alright so first go with the 7/16 hex, hammer it in then see if that works if not then extract it with the spiral screw extractor kit correct?
 

IJ.

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That would be my first choice, there isn't much depth to the bolt head so if you use the easyout (spiral extractor) you may need to grind it's tip a bit so it can get a good bite.

The 7/16 Inhex can be hammered in using a piece of aluminium bar so you don't trash it, that way you can still get the extension into it (I have a junk extension I use for this sort of thing) make sure there is no oil in the bolt head before you start as it will act as a cushion and not allow the inhex to seat (more than likely this is why the original stripped)
 

Doat

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Yea I tried clearing out the oil when I first tried loosening it and I think there was just enough to make it strip but today I found a small paint brush and cleaned out all of the bolt heads and they appear to be dry. I have plenty of extensions to use as a battering ram lol. I will give the 7/16 inhex a shot and report back, I have plenty of time to get this bolt out since my ARP studs are on back order and apparently ARP has a nationwide back order here in the states.

Appreciate the help and sorry if I came off as asking the same question over and over but I like to be absolutely clear about what to do.
 

Doat

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When I remove the cam to get to that stripped bolt, so I have to mark the position of the cams and such or do they go back in a certain way? Like right now it's at TDC so will the cam gears and the cam only fit in at TDC?
 

Doat

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Yea I remember reading 7Ms are non interference so if I mess up the timing it won't damage anything it will just run weirdly right
 

Cyrus

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IJ, is it possible to have the valves hit each other if you are spinning one cam and not the other? if so, be careful not to do that, Doat. ;)
 

Doat

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Well I went to two local stores that have lots of hex bits and they only have 12mm or they don't have 7/16" and in order to use the 12mm I'd need to remove the cam, which I don't mind doing as long as it will work. Could I use the 12mm or is that too big?
 
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IJ.

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Cyrus;1852806 said:
IJ, is it possible to have the valves hit each other if you are spinning one cam and not the other? if so, be careful not to do that, Doat. ;)
Never tested that Cyrus, I don't have any 7M parts here or I'd check.
(easy enough test if some one has a head handy)

Doat;1852827 said:
Well I went to two local stores that have lots of hex bits and they only have 12mm or they don't have 7/16" and in order to use the 12mm I'd need to remove the cam, which I don't mind doing as long as it will work. Could I use the 12mm or is that too big?
No 12mm is far too big, just order one from that Sears?

Or go to plan B the easyout.