Bigaaron's "5M crank in a 7M" build thread!
- Thread starter bigaaron
- Start date
soup said:
It was more like a slight let down then a pipe dream crash. It ends up being less expensive to have the pistons be the only custom made part (other then the crank). I could have used the rods from the I6 Chevy motor (I forget which it was), but the crank would need to be ground to 2.00" on the rod journals to match.
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this is super interesting...... im loveing it.... keep up the work, who knows, it may just be my future set-up :naughty:
What is Castillo's charging to do your crank? I think I'm gonna send mine to them when the time comes, just wondering a roundabout price as to what they charge.
Although I'm not having my snout modified, it'll at least be an idea.
Although I'm not having my snout modified, it'll at least be an idea.
I still don't have the crank back. He said it was going to be a while, but I didn't expect it to take this long.
Really? Yeah, 2+month leadtime is a little long... I understand it's custom, but still...
I'm now interested in this setup, a final cost when you're all done with it will be much appreciated. I'll probably go this route with my 7M when I build it.
I'm now interested in this setup, a final cost when you're all done with it will be much appreciated. I'll probably go this route with my 7M when I build it.
Castillo's is a crank shop, they only do cranks. Unfortunately (or fortunately) they do some of the best crank work out there, so it's kinda of worth the wait. It's hopefully getting dropped off at our machine shop on Monday. I dropped off a block and head today to get the ball rolling, and Mike is picking up my 1jz Supra tomorrow, so that will help fund my project. My 7m Supra is basically going to eat my 1jz Supra. LOL
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0610turp_castillo_crankshaft_service/
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0610turp_castillo_crankshaft_service/
wow, good read, wait it out man!
i think the next crank i lighten i will tell him im doing a race crank, and have it v-out and double knife edged, along with winging the jurnal through's,
i definitly thought the tear shaped oil galleries on the crank was a great idea!
i think the next crank i lighten i will tell him im doing a race crank, and have it v-out and double knife edged, along with winging the jurnal through's,
i definitly thought the tear shaped oil galleries on the crank was a great idea!
If your crank is at Castillos, there is no other source. They are the best crank shop out there.
Hope you get it in soon, Aaron!
Hope you get it in soon, Aaron!
From what I hear the knife edging is not as important on a 7m crank because it is not spinning in as much oil in the pan as some engines do. :dunno:
My crank is done and it is getting gas nitride hardened as I type this!
I ordered a set of Eagle 7m rods from SupraRich yesterday.
I'm going to be going with a set of Arias custom pistons for this engine, .040" oversized, with the pin moved down 3mm for the shorter crank stroke. I talked with their lead engineer about my project. He said he likes the whole setup the way I am doing it. He was explaining that the widely accepted optimum rod ratio is 1.75, and the stock 7m is under that at 1.67, which shows in piston wear on the skirts and cylinder walls. The new rod ratio will be 1.78, which will help at higher rpm and increase the engines lifespan (in terms of cylinder and piston wear). Higher then 1.75 is better then lower in this application, but to go any longer on the rod would be unnecessary. He also explained that moving the piston pin down would give the piston more stability, at a cost of added weight, but the extra weight is minimal with a 3mm change.
I found this link to be very interesting and informative on this subject:
http://e30m3performance.com/tech_articles/engine-tech/rod-ratio/index.htm
My crank is done and it is getting gas nitride hardened as I type this!
I ordered a set of Eagle 7m rods from SupraRich yesterday.
I'm going to be going with a set of Arias custom pistons for this engine, .040" oversized, with the pin moved down 3mm for the shorter crank stroke. I talked with their lead engineer about my project. He said he likes the whole setup the way I am doing it. He was explaining that the widely accepted optimum rod ratio is 1.75, and the stock 7m is under that at 1.67, which shows in piston wear on the skirts and cylinder walls. The new rod ratio will be 1.78, which will help at higher rpm and increase the engines lifespan (in terms of cylinder and piston wear). Higher then 1.75 is better then lower in this application, but to go any longer on the rod would be unnecessary. He also explained that moving the piston pin down would give the piston more stability, at a cost of added weight, but the extra weight is minimal with a 3mm change.
I found this link to be very interesting and informative on this subject:
http://e30m3performance.com/tech_articles/engine-tech/rod-ratio/index.htm
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Aaron: No cranks should be actually spinning in the Oil......
The knife edging is done so it has less resistance to the oil that's drainging back while running (never been a fan of it and prefer a nice smooth radius)
The knife edging is done so it has less resistance to the oil that's drainging back while running (never been a fan of it and prefer a nice smooth radius)
<jk>
lol!
So Aaron, what's the cost on the crank? I think I'll be building something like that for myself.
So Aaron, what's the cost on the crank? I think I'll be building something like that for myself.
supra90turbo said:
I haven't paid for it yet, and after this job I don't know if he will want to do another one at any price. :biglaugh: I don't want to quote my price anyway.
He may change it next time, if you want to deal with him directly give him a call.