Clean the oil off...
Not only is it ugly, smokes, and overall isn't great for the engine, it's a fire hazzard...
Not only is it ugly, smokes, and overall isn't great for the engine, it's a fire hazzard...
bhg, after bhg?
- Thread starter bobpogoman
- Start date
Are there any of the classic BHG signs such as bubbles in the rad while running or coolant in the Oil?
(sorry I assumed you'd already checked all this)
(sorry I assumed you'd already checked all this)
I just did an HKS stopper on my motor, and agonized over the deck and head contact surfaces.
Is yours finished to a high enough ra?
I know you took it to the machine shop, but not all machinists understand that both deck and head have to look like a mirror. Seriously.
I ended up pulling the block and ordering like $500 worth of machine tools to get mine right.
I'd make sure that the machining the surfaces correctly wasn't the main problem. It happens all the time, fwiw.
Is yours finished to a high enough ra?
I know you took it to the machine shop, but not all machinists understand that both deck and head have to look like a mirror. Seriously.
I ended up pulling the block and ordering like $500 worth of machine tools to get mine right.
I'd make sure that the machining the surfaces correctly wasn't the main problem. It happens all the time, fwiw.
ij, for 15 minutes of idling, there is no bubbles in the rad//overflow. ima drain the oil right now, and look for coolant. what oil with coolant look like? i know brown cofee but, with a little 15 mins of car running on idle, and 2 mins of driving there will be enuff coolant in the oil for me to see it?
actually the turbo//manifold is off the car, i checked at the head gasket from outside, nothing.
but there is some cooland near a coolant hose that bolt there, no crack in the hose but maybe its badly sealed and that may be the thing that was smoking white under the manifold...
and ehm btw, i can turn really easily the crankshaft with my 1/2 torque wrench (1.5ft bar) without having to pull it, just pushing it slowly withour REAL strenght and it turn. normal?
actually the turbo//manifold is off the car, i checked at the head gasket from outside, nothing.
but there is some cooland near a coolant hose that bolt there, no crack in the hose but maybe its badly sealed and that may be the thing that was smoking white under the manifold...
and ehm btw, i can turn really easily the crankshaft with my 1/2 torque wrench (1.5ft bar) without having to pull it, just pushing it slowly withour REAL strenght and it turn. normal?
and suprabad, the machie shop where i took the engine do almost all mhg jobs of supraquebec club members, they know what they do and i spoke with him about the finish, he knew all that.
Let sit awhile any coolant will seperate from the oil and be easy to see Bob.
By all means rule out EVERYTHING before you pull the head again.
By all means rule out EVERYTHING before you pull the head again.
ok guyes last update4 for today (nice one i think) lol
compression check:
i removed all spark plugs, the spark plug 1 2 and 3 (1 is the closest to timing belt, 2 is the next one etc...) were covered with oil (oil was raining from them :O) other were dry
the numbers are (still 1=1st from timing belt, 6=farest from the belt.
1-145 2-145 3-130 4-140 5-135 6-109....109?
all this with brand new rings?
and there are some pictures...
shes like omg, please some 1 fix me well
here is the 2 pictures of my oil, after 15 mins of running :O notice that im in break-in period for the engine since it has new rings...but look like moka coffe?
whats next?
compression check:
i removed all spark plugs, the spark plug 1 2 and 3 (1 is the closest to timing belt, 2 is the next one etc...) were covered with oil (oil was raining from them :O) other were dry
the numbers are (still 1=1st from timing belt, 6=farest from the belt.
1-145 2-145 3-130 4-140 5-135 6-109....109?
all this with brand new rings?
and there are some pictures...
shes like omg, please some 1 fix me well
here is the 2 pictures of my oil, after 15 mins of running :O notice that im in break-in period for the engine since it has new rings...but look like moka coffe?
whats next?
109 is a HUGE concern
Was the battery getting flat?
Did you do the test with the throttle wide open?
Was the battery getting flat?
Did you do the test with the throttle wide open?
nope the batt was ok, i tested the 6 3 times, always 109, but was thortle clozed :S damn didnt think bout it... but neway the LOT of oil on spark plugs 1 2 and 3 are..? i dont think rings could blow the oil all the way up to the plugs, and the valve stems, were working right before i took everything to the machine shop, they didnt disasembled the head so... cant be this..
bhg could get oil on the plugs tho...
im 99.9% sure its the gasket, but im not an expert so...
if not what can do the oil on plugs?
im actually at home so cant work on car right now,
bhg could get oil on the plugs tho...
im 99.9% sure its the gasket, but im not an expert so...
if not what can do the oil on plugs?
im actually at home so cant work on car right now,
Leave the oil sit overnight and see if any coolant seperates out.
The 140ish numbers are all ok for closed throttle readings but that 109 indicates an issue and is why I suggested a leakdown test as well.
(should always be done WoT though)
If it's a valve problem you'll hear it doing the leakdown it'll hiss at the manifold it's leaking into.
If it's the HG leaking you'll hear it at the Oil filler hole.
Which side of the plugs is the Oil on?
Outside or electrode side?
The 140ish numbers are all ok for closed throttle readings but that 109 indicates an issue and is why I suggested a leakdown test as well.
(should always be done WoT though)
If it's a valve problem you'll hear it doing the leakdown it'll hiss at the manifold it's leaking into.
If it's the HG leaking you'll hear it at the Oil filler hole.
Which side of the plugs is the Oil on?
Outside or electrode side?
electrode side, and the car was smoking blue a LOT after like 45 sec of driving...
leakdown test is the thing that u put 100psi with a compressor in the cylinders one by one?
leakdown test is the thing that u put 100psi with a compressor in the cylinders one by one?
Also, it looks like your PCV system is BLOCKED...
Not good for break in of the rings...or the rings in general..
Not good for break in of the rings...or the rings in general..
Poodles;1086074 said:
what you mean? catch can wrongly installed? ya i thought it was bad but why there is only 2 hoses in the catch can :O? 1 per valve cover hole.. but no breather? i should pierce a hold in my can, and put a breather in?
Yep that's it.
I'm with Poo check the PCV system there's something amiss that you have that much Oil in the CC.
It did get new valve seals didn't it?
I'm with Poo check the PCV system there's something amiss that you have that much Oil in the CC.
It did get new valve seals didn't it?
the fact that my pcv isnt well vented can blow oil up to the spark plug, and make the combustion in the cc unable to burn it? i dont think, maybe with 20 lbs of boost, but i havnt even boosted yet,, :S
for the seals im not sure, they hav to disasemble the head to change them? if they have to, they didnt did it, they havnt touched the head, only cleaned it, crack checked it.
for the seals im not sure, they hav to disasemble the head to change them? if they have to, they didnt did it, they havnt touched the head, only cleaned it, crack checked it.
And recheck the compression with the throttle wide open. Hit your buddy with the torque wrench just as a reminder.:nono:
IJ: look at his photo, the catch can has two hoses and one goes to each valve cover.
You've effectively SEALED the crank case, that's very bad for the operation of the rings and can blow seals out...
You've effectively SEALED the crank case, that's very bad for the operation of the rings and can blow seals out...
poodle what can i do with this? put a breather on the can?? put only one hose on the can for the 2 valve covers, and let the other hole open?
but this cant cause the oil on the plugs?
but this cant cause the oil on the plugs?
Nice catch Poo!
The pic is so dark here I can't see jack on it so I saved it and brightened it up some.
Bob: With it plumbed that way as soon as it runs with the poor ring seal it's pumping the crankcase full of pressure and it has to go somewhere.
I'm a bit surprised it hasn't popped a seal or two yet.
There needs to be another line from the catch can to the accordian hose but for now remove the CC and replumb everything back to stock.
The pic is so dark here I can't see jack on it so I saved it and brightened it up some.
Bob: With it plumbed that way as soon as it runs with the poor ring seal it's pumping the crankcase full of pressure and it has to go somewhere.
I'm a bit surprised it hasn't popped a seal or two yet.
There needs to be another line from the catch can to the accordian hose but for now remove the CC and replumb everything back to stock.
Poodles;1086074 said:
That was very observant...good job poodles!
bobpogoman;1086119 said:
(Loud Buzzer Sound) WRONG.
Serously, boosting has nothing to do with it. It wouldn't matter if your engine was an n/a.
If you seal up the crankcase, the pressure generated in there has nowhere to go, so it just builds up until it exceeds the engine's ability to hold it in, then escapes at the weakest link (usually the rings). In your case the rings are new, and probably haven't seated yet, so it just found the path of least resistance, which judging by your compression test numbers is cylinder #6.
That 30psi drop in #6 is way, way too much.
10% variance between any two cylinders is considered the limit. You're way past 10%, and you didn't hold the throttle open as I understand it. A wide open throttle compression test will probably yield an even greater difference in compression variance from cylinder to cylinder.
One possible bright note is that the rings may have not seated yet (depending on how long you've run it), which could account for the difference in compression, but it seems odd that only one cylinder is out. But you never know, it's possible.
bobpogoman;1086119 said:
It's a hassle and requires the old "rope trick", so the valves don't fall into the cylinders (at which point you're officially fucked), but it can be done.
Note: If you have to pull the head...always replace the valve seals (even if you replaced them in the recent past)...their cheap, and easy to do with the head off.