id like to go to 19 psi when the engine is well broke-in :S thats why i got it but cant seem to set it to like 16psi for now
bhg, after bhg?
- Thread starter bobpogoman
- Start date
Awful lot of BHG's have been caused by an FDC...fuel cut is there for a reason. A MAFT Pro is a much better option.
FCD was meant to be used with the rest of the HKS setup and to be tuned...
By itself it's dangerous as if I remember right it clamps the AFM signal...
By itself it's dangerous as if I remember right it clamps the AFM signal...
ok but how do i set a fuel cut? i dont want to dont have any more cut, just to raise it a little... but it dosent seem to work.. i wired it between the engine bay harness and the safc neo, then the neo send it to ecu (its wrote that on the hks fcd manual). but is there a way to test the fcd?
and if its not working, is there a way to get fcd that work well, and can be set? theres some pneumatic... idk if they work well...
and if its not working, is there a way to get fcd that work well, and can be set? theres some pneumatic... idk if they work well...
guyes, im currently doing my head studs retorque, and i read that i must wait for the engine to cool down, so how long? till its at room temperature? till i can hold my hand on it? till the coolant is ok so i can touch the rad?
cuz im actually waiting to do it, the car havnt runned for like 1 hour.
cuz im actually waiting to do it, the car havnt runned for like 1 hour.
ok, i will print the order from tsrm, just untight the nut from the stud by cracking them (like 1/4 turn) then re-torque them to 90 lb-ft
ill do them one by one like, untight the 1st in the initial order, then torque to 90, then do the 2nd etc... till the end...
ill do them one by one like, untight the 1st in the initial order, then torque to 90, then do the 2nd etc... till the end...
i put 90 on my torque wrench, since we tested it with my friend one 2 week ago , and mine always have -5 -6 then my frien one so, i decided that more will be better then torquing less.. 
car run great, another 1200 km and the break-in is complete, and switchin to syntec
car run great, another 1200 km and the break-in is complete, and switchin to syntec
More torque is not "better"
Even 85 ft/lbs is higher than the spec ARP has for their studs.
You cut into the yield strength margin designed for the hardware...especially critical on an aluminum head on a steel block where the differences in thermal expansion come into play.
Why not just get your torque wrench calibrated?
Even 85 ft/lbs is higher than the spec ARP has for their studs.
You cut into the yield strength margin designed for the hardware...especially critical on an aluminum head on a steel block where the differences in thermal expansion come into play.
Why not just get your torque wrench calibrated?