X-man said:I installed a new oil pump and kept all my clearances at .0015 on the rods and mains. I made sure every oil passage was open and everything was cleaned to within an inch of it's life. As Figgie stated above you can never pay to close attention to specs and detail. At 600 rpm warm it help 10 to 12 psi I now keep the idle at 900 rpm as I get a more consistant voltage reading from the alternator and my oil psi stays at 17 to 20 psi warm. I also run 20W50 Castrol GTX engine oil.
All of this was done on a VPC, S-AFC, ITC and 680 inj. combo and an SP67 turbo with a .68 and .81 a/r on a p trim and an HKS cast long runner manifold. I have now gone to an AEM with 1000 cc inj. and a GT4202 turbo with an S trim and a 1.01 a/r.
The engine is still stock inside and we shall see what it will take on the dyno. Externally it has a FFI intake, Q45 throttle body, stainless header, 3 inch aluminum IC piping from turbo to IC and 3.5 inch steel IC piping from IC tp throttle body, and a 4 inch exhaust system. I built all of it except the throttle body in my shop at my house so we'll see how it goes.
Sean
Sean - Thanks for the informative reply and the detailed information about your consistant high-hp stock-block 7M. Honestly, this is the first time I have heard of a STOCK 7M taking that much abuse for so long, and I have been researching upgrades for my car for about 8 years. I guess I missed something somewhere. Ive read about stock 7Ms that have been dynoed at 700hp - One time. I never hear about the long term effects of it.
I guess you dont hear EVERY story about EVERY 7M in the country on internet forums or via Google, but I thought that by now there would have been quite a few, if not a couple of people posting about their high-hp 7M that they were running on stock internals.
I sincerely wish you well with some ultra-high hp levels on the 7M - perhaps it will be a decent alternative for those with higher hp goals that are currently persuing more expensive routes to accomplish their objective.:evil5: