2JZGE-T with 7M Electronics...Build/pics/writeup

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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To mod the CPS, I put it in the head as far as it will go then marked lines top and bottom over the 2J bolt.

Then I drilled 4 holes with a 1/4 drill. Got the dremel and smoothed the rest out..

Dok33 I should be able to get to the post office tomorrow so I will send you that EGR thing.
 

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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Well, I have done as much as I can with the motor out so it was time to put it back in....

I needed it in the bay so I can fit the DP and wastegate, and re-weld the flange on the wastegate. Also need to start hooking up the P/S and A/C and I wanted to see what parts I may need to get it all working.

No pics of the bellhousing and R-154 install as I think most people know what they look like!

Here's the new 1JZ flywheel with ARP's. I put some FIPG in the bolt holes first so it won't leak (I hope!!!)



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Fit's like a glove!!


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tlo86

Ninja Editor 'Since 05'
Jul 24, 2005
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ahhh doesnt it fit naturally in the bay? how is the fitment of the 7m compressor top? i gave up fitting mine i felt as if i was grinding into the p/s pump wayyy to much
 

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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tlo86 - I just hooked up the A/C lines to see if it fits and it does! I was worried as the clearance is tight but I ground down the P/S mount enough. It is never thinner than about 3/8 inch so I think it is still plenty strong. I will take pics when I get some o-rings and bolt down the lines.


So today I was trying to see how I am going to run my hotside I/C piping. I have the stock A/C line running down the passenger side chassis rail, and that is preventing me from clocking the turbo the way I want. I ordered a tight 90deg elbow from driftmotion to see if I can make it work, otherwise I am going to do it like in this pic...

I was just mocking it up with a huge rubber elbow, I will have a better, smaller 90 deg elbow but this will work if I have to run it this way...there is very little room to work below the turbo.............Pipes'n'shit everywhere:aigo:

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More progress when I get back from work next week..
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Looks nice, but I'd have an elbow welded on the turbo outlet instead... The only issue I see with that is you might not be able to adjust timing without pulling the turbo...and that doesn't work.

Going to be in Houston with your car?
 

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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lppro - I know your frustration.. waiting on parts does suck! I ordered a bunch of stuff all at once so that has kept me busy...

Poodles - As I said in my previous post, I am going to weld a tight radius 90 on the turbo. I just ordered one from Aaron. The pics are just my mockup. I was using the big black elbow mainly to hold the piping in place to see if it clears the fan. Even with the huge pipe I could still reach the CPS. It will be much neater with the smaller elbow on there.
I will be at TX2K8, for thursday and friday. Gotta work after that. I hope to have the car ready by then, but next week I am on vacation so that will slow me down.
 

dok33

My fuel pump precedes me
Apr 16, 2005
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Austin, TX
www.cardomain.com
lppro;931798 said:
looking good! at least one of us is making progress... :3d_frown: every time i think i can start doing something major with my swop i realize im missing a part.. lol

I'm in the same boat, keep finding stuff as I'm installing the parts I have (ie vband clamp).

Looking good yankiwi! Would a manifold spacer help any with the hotside clearance if you ran it by the A/C lines?
 

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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dok33 - Yeah, I thought about a spacer, but that creates another problem...The pipe going to the intake manifold runs right over the turbo. It is already closer than I would like. If I put a spacer in I won't fit that pipe over the exhaust housing!! If it's not one thing it's another:biglaugh:

I will make it work somehow......
 

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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Today I started hooking up all the various lines...


Here's the ones I did.....


Lower radiator hose - Used stock 7M hose, fits perfect.

Upper radiator hose - Used 2J upper hose, cut about 3 inches off and it fits great.

p936386_1.jpg




Heater hoses - From between the cams I used the stock 7M hose. The other hose also works as it is long enough to go from the exhaust side of the 2J over to the drivers side heater inlet.

p936386_2.jpg



Here is the stock A/C lines hooked up. I had to grind some off the P/S pump mount to fit it on, the P/S pump is out of the way in the pic but fits fine. I am going to relocate the oil filter to give me more room. The stock 2J one would work, but it would rub on the A/C line...

p936386_3.jpg




Also got the P/S hooked up. I used the stock 2J high pressure line, it runs from the pump down under the front of the sump and loops back, I cut the hard line there and at the rack, then I used a compression fitting from a local hydraulic shop to join the lines. Cost $11:biglaugh:

I ran the low pressure lines through the stock tranny cooler in the radiator, then back up to the reservoir. I plan on getting a dedicated P/S cooler, but I am still trying to find a place to put it after I install my oil cooler, I am running out of room at the front............

You can see one end of the hydraulic shop line in the pic where the hard line does a 45deg bend...

p936386_4.jpg
 

yankiwi

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Aug 27, 2005
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TPS....

I have a 2J harness, and my first plan was to use the 2J tps and solder the 2J tps piggytail into the 7M harness. That way I could keep the stock 2J tps. But... I couldn't find anywhere that verifies the 2J tps puts out the same signal as the 7M.

So I dug into my box of sensors and found a 7M tps that rotates the correct way to mount on the 2J throttle body. The 7MGE tps is 90 deg off from the 7MGTE one so I am using one of them.. I just can't remember which one is which!!

In the pic I have my tps adjusting special service tool:biglaugh: hooked up so I can set it right. Much easier to do on the bench than the car....

Anyone need a tps!!!!!!! I have a few..........


p936417_1.jpg
 

yankiwi

New Member
Aug 27, 2005
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Ken,

That was my goal... I wanted to have it done for the meet. I am leaving on vacation Thursday and I will only have a couple of spare days when I get back. Unfortunately I have had a problem getting my Maftpro on time, so I am now stuck waiting on that to arrive. It is the last major piece of this puzzle.

I won't have time to wire it in before I go away so that may screw the plan........
 

dok33

My fuel pump precedes me
Apr 16, 2005
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Austin, TX
www.cardomain.com
Lookin good!! ? on the P/S lines-did you completely remove the 7M hard lines that run across the x-member and across the front of the car (in front of the radiator)? I couldn't figure that out based on the pictures I've seen and looking at my car...
 

yankiwi

New Member
Aug 27, 2005
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dok - yeah I forgot to mention that... I removed all the hard lines, including the "cooler" that goes up under the nose cone. It actually gives you more room under the exhaust manifold to run oil drains etc....
 

yankiwi

New Member
Aug 27, 2005
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Today I finished the fuel lines and mounted the AFPR. No pic as it is pretty standard.

Also put the harness back on... there are lists already from others about what needs to be done to the 7M harness, but here is what I did.

Wires that now run over the cams to the exhaust side...

Alternator - used 2J plug and joined it to the 7M wiring. 2x 10 gauge black wires are the same. The other 3 wires are the same color too, so I have them wired up the same. We will see if that is right when I crank it.

CPS - No change.

O2 sensor - No change

AFM - No change


Wires on the intake side...

ECU temp - Shortened wire and it is located under the #2 runner

Temp gauge sender - Shortened wire it is next to ^^^

Oil pressure sender - I used a short braided wire from Driftmotion out of the stock 2J oil pressure sender. I put a T fitting on with the 7M sender on the top. I ran my turbo feed from the other port. Shortened the wire and it sits above the A/C compressor now.

TPS - Extended wires to reach.

ISC - Extended wires to reach.

Coil pack - Extended to reach my coils on the strut tower.

Injectors - I wired in my new clips for my 550's.

Knock sensors - Used 7M sensors with rewired USB cable.

Starter - Used 7M starter so no wiring changes.

All the wiring going to the fuse box area is unchanged....

That is it I think. All the other crap is gone, vsv's cold start inj etc..not using any of them.......


Here's a couple of pics.. Kinda messy but this was before I tied it all down etc..

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yankiwi

New Member
Aug 27, 2005
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OK, I'm back from vacation and I spent a couple of days working on the car.. It is ready to start...almost.

I did a lot of work...

Welded up a midpipe to join my D/P to my catback.
Welded a dump tube for my wastegate.
Shortened the intake pipe to fit.
Welded in iat sensor and Tial BOV.
Put plugs in and ran wires.
Relocated the oil filter to under the drivers side headlight.
Wired in Maftpro and mounted sensors.
Fabbed up a new lower I/C pipe.
Assembled everything for a final test fit:biglaugh:

I managed to clock the turbo the way I originally wanted... I used a tight 90 deg elbow and a 3/8 spacer between the mani and turbo. This let me clock it to the bottom and have a short easy hotside I/C pipe.

Here are some pics of the days work.

My I/C pipe that comes up through the snorkel hole. IAT sensor for Maftpro and my Tial BOV welded on..

p954568_1.jpg



Wiring in the Maftpro... checked and doubled checked all the wires!!!!

p954568_2.jpg



Here it is!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ready to crank::w00t::

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