1UZ into my MKIII

[foreverpsycotic]

they were mocked up in a MKIII chassis, and claims he was the guy who built cowboy bebop's setup. the name is ARGAMEMENON on sf.

and wouldnt you be able to test the running of the 1uz with a rebuilt flywheel. then order a blank drilled to fit?

 

[cjsupra90]

Eric is local to me, I will talk to him and ask him who built them for him or if he did. Either way though, if they are tubular, they better be 321 or 347 stainless or 625 Inconel or they wont last.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

confirmation that a big single will fit (NOT MY CAR but i wish it was:love: :love: :love: )
gt42r in a MKIII with a 1uz

 

[foreverpsycotic]

oh, cj, can you possible get that r154>1uz bellhousing adaptor with a built in spacer?

 

[MidShipCivic]

A GT42R can fit in there no problem he's just not doing it right.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

if someone was to go with a single, thats the spot ide place it in, along with converting to an e-fan. intercooler piping and intake placement are great.

 

[cjsupra90]

oh, cj, can you possible get that r154>1uz bellhousing adaptor with a built in spacer?

The only company that I know that makes an adapter that is basically what you are saying is THOR Racing in Great Britian and its a rip-off cause of the exchange rate. Its £250.00 (pounds) which is about $500 US. They also have a whole kit which is £1200.00 which is like $2300 US. If it wasn't for the shitty exchange rate between the US and GB, it wouldn't be a bad deal for the adapter. Here is a like to THOR Racings page for the adapter.
http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/R154_to_1UZFE_Gearbox_Ad-R154_to_1UZFE_Adaptor.asp

 

[foreverpsycotic]

wait, can you use a bellhousing designed forthe 1uz on the 2uz and vice a versa. because if thats the case toyota made an adaptor bellhousing already, its called the r150 bellhousing.

 

[Ric]

Theres a local MK2 with a 1UZ here in Orlando. N/a of course. Runs 15s in the 1/4

 

[cjsupra90]

wait, can you use a bellhousing designed forthe 1uz on the 2uz and vice a versa. because if thats the case toyota made an adaptor bellhousing already, its called the r150 bellhousing.

Yes the 1uz and 2uz and 3uz (all UZ engines) have the same bellhousing battern on the block. There are only IIRC 3 different bellhousing that toyota has made that have the V8 UZ bolt patteren There is a U1, a U2, and a truck version of the U1.

The U1 and U2 are pretty much identical except that the trans side bolt pattern is rotated 7degrees IIRC. It was only used in the Crown IIRC cause the motor was installed on a 7degree angle for clearance reasons and the trans is rotated back that 7degrees cause of the bellhousing, then there is the truck bellhousing (used in the LX470, Sequoia, Tundra and im guessing the new V8 4Runners also), Its pretty much identical to the Standard U1 bellhousing except that it is taller to accept a thicker HD torque converter then what is used in the cars.

I have never heard of an R150 bellhousing that will bolt up to a V8 bolt partern. Two things I can tell you about the R150 is that its a 4WD trans and is has a shorter input shaft like the W series boxes. Not a long one like the R154 supra box so even if there is a bellhousing, you will still have to machine your R154 input shaft down.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

so any chance that your buddy can make a thicker adaptor(one with the spacer built in)

 

[cjsupra90]

Im not sure, but I dont see why not. I will talk to him and see if he might be willing to. If nut, maybe I'll look into doing a CAD drawing for at least the spacer if anything that way it would allow for the direct bolt up of the R154 trans.
The only real problem that I can see is that the only cost effective way is to have the components either water/abrasive or laser cut and when you start to get that thick, the taper of the cu starts to become more pronounce and so therefore less accurate the hole location is and that could effect the input shaft to crankshaft alignment and anything more the a few thou's (.003 to .005 at the most) will cause problems.

EDIT: Hmmmm, The light in my brain just turned on.... I think that I just figured out a way to still have the spacers laser or water jet cut and still have the hole locations be exact with in .001 to .002 of an inch by drilling the holes on a mill by hand insted of the holes being done by the laser or water jet. Now I just need to fine someone that will sell me a R154 bellhousing for cheap.....

 

[foreverpsycotic]

i :love: how you think man. plus, if you have the cad files for the spacer+adaptor you could always make some money off of them.

 

[cjsupra90]

i :love: how you think man. plus, if you have the cad files for the spacer+adaptor you could always make some money off of them.

Yeah, I have though about doing that. I actually did a CAD drawing a while back for the adapter for the W series tranny's, but the HD in the computer that it was on took a shit and I didn't have it backed up on anything. (I learned my lession after that one. everything gets backed-up on disc now.) I am still pissed about that (and it was sometime ago that it happend) cause I lost about a year or so worth of drawings for all sorts of things.

OOH speeking of that, Ian if you are reading this, do you by chance still have the drawing that I emailed you a while back that had the W series Tranny bolt pattern that you were going to test run? (God I hope so) if so, I need to see if you could email that back to me.

The way that I was planning on doing it would not requier much of a CAD file, just the outside shape of the tranny case and the matching inside profile that would be used for the CNC programming of the laser or waterjet. Once the plate is cut on the laser or waterjet, then the plate would be clamped to a butchered R154 bellhousing and the holes drilled using the bellhousing plate as a drilling guide or even just the proper size transfer punches to mark hole center locations. All in all, there is only two critical holes and that is the two dowl pin holes. The others dont matter as long as they are close enough for the bolts to go through and thread into the trans main case, then they are fine.

Something else that would make life even easier is if we could find substantially longer dowl pins and then even those holes are no longer critical and they can be drilled slighly larger like the bolt holes. Hmmmmm, the gears are turning...

 

[foreverpsycotic]

well, hopefully(for 1uz->r154 sake) they turn into an extra thick adaptor.

 

[IJ.]

Chris: Drop me an e-mail and I'll send it right back!

 

[Reign_Maker]

How's this coming along CJ?

 

[cjsupra90]

Jake, very very slow.....

I am actually stuck as to which route to go. I cant make up my mind as to whether to go N/A (but not stock) for a while or twin turbo right off the bat. The problem that I am running into is if I go TT right off the bat then the car is going to be down longer and being it my only means of transport besides the Busa, its a problem. Its kinda hard to ride the Busa every day to work and back. The decision is to either by some cheap beater, or just rent a car. If I stay N/A for a while, the car should only be down for two weekend and the week inbetween and if I went TT right away, then probably a whole nother week if not more. With the TT set up, there is a lot more fab that has to be done with the engine in the car where as N/A, the only fabbing that would have to be done with the engine in the car is the exhaust (headers back) and thats pretty much it besides some wiring, but the wiring is a given regardless.

 

[Reign_Maker]

Ah well, just hang in there, both decisions are good, but it really comes down to how much power you want and how much you want to spend to make it... The TT would be insanely nasty!!! I'd love to see it, but, I know its a tough decision you gotta make...

 

[Mr.PFloyd]

stay NA. go tt when you feel you have the necessary time and do not long for your car. it will be the machine of a dream!