1UZ into my MKIII

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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souprat said:
the reason the t-56 fits in the rx-7's is because the ecentric(sp?) shaft sits higher than the crankshaft of normal motors. so i guess the 'rex trannys are mounted higher in the car nessitating a large trans tunnel.

off topic: now a 'rex would be a badass car to put a v8 into. i'm thinking carbed 350 and a 200-4r. oops someone help me get my head out of the clouds.


what are ou going to do for a clutch with this thing? 1uz FW? what PP? i'm assuming a GM disk? can you use the mkiii clutch master cylender?

As for the rex with a 350, i had one with a T56.... The problem with the supra tunnel is the width, not the height, but now that I think about it, the rex does have a very wide tunnel (purposly designed that way from Mazda) to give it very high torsional regidity....

As for the flywheel, one either has to be custom made or other modded to fit the 1uz. No UZ class motor ever came with a manual behind it, so there is not direct bolt-on unit. For right now, I will be using the SPEC clutch that is on the car at the moment. Once I do the tranny swap later on, then I will worry about figuring out the clutch, but most likely a custom disc, basically a the a toyota disc with a GM center that way I can stay with the same FW and PP, unless I end up going duel disc which then will be most likely a Tilton unit with a custom flywheel....

Yes, the stock clutch Master can be used without any issues.
 

Nick M

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Sep 9, 2005
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I also like the W series over the R. And the T56 is plenty strong, much more than 440 lb/ft. Remeber the Viper?

Good to see you started a thread here! I will continue to watch in both places.
 

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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souprat, yeah doing it right is not the issue here, its more so do to lack of time and occational lack of funds. Also spending a lot of time figuring out little tid-bits that I am doing with the swap that aren't needed, but things that I want to do for my own reasons, i.e. like adapting a GM CS alternator to the motor in place of the Denso unit, ect.....

Nick, I'm with you on the W over the R and yes the T56 is far stronger then Tremic rates them at.
 

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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Well, its been a while since any updates but I finally got around to atleast doing something for the swap this week. Below are some pics of the crank trigger sensor that I had to fabricate from scratch. Although its not much, it is a major part to the motor actually running with my standalone. SDS sent me the tiny trigger elements and PCB and then the rest I had to do.

p447172_1.jpg


p447172_2.jpg


p447172_3.jpg


p447172_4.jpg
 

cjsupra90

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souprat said:
Sweet an update! looks pretty good there Cj. every little thing is one step closer.

The updates should be a little me often now that 95% of my X-Mas stuff is out of the way and I can spend a little more money and time on the project.

Next step is the fabrication of the trigger wheel for the crank trigger and then, who knows what I'll work on next.
 

mattjk

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May 18, 2006
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IJ. said:
Cad plating on the bolts!

It's usually the first thing that goes a bit crappy on motors! :)

Cad plating is great, and cheap!

I helped a friend do a frame off restoration of a 72 lotus europa, and every single nut, bolt, and washer that could be resused, was cadmium plated. Brake rotors were black cad plated, and the frame was powder coated satin black.
 

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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high psi 1jz said:
How does the sc400 weight compare to the supra?

The cars themselves are very close to eachother in weight, I think that the SC is on average about 100lbs heavier. The nice part is that by doing this motor swap, I will actually be loosing a significant about of weight in the front end cause the 1UZ is lighter then the 7M by a noticable amount. I am not sure of the exact amount of differance, but I do know that the front of the car will end up sitting almost a 1/2" higher with the 1UZ installed then with the 7M. The other added benefit is that the weight that is there ends up being shifted back towards the center of the car, So this will benefit handling also.
 

NashMan

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Aug 5, 2005
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i was goig to do this swap to my car even had the motor at one point but sodl it for more then what i paid for it needed
money


the 1uz has bena dream project of mine cause there really dame nice motor mix it with tiwns you got a 2j eater
and it will just make the mk3 far better in every thign wiht this motor

oh yae and the sound droooool's

all so deam mcream has done the swap all ready as well but i think he ketp it auto
 
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swaq

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cjsupra90 said:
The cars themselves are very close to eachother in weight, I think that the SC is on average about 100lbs heavier. The nice part is that by doing this motor swap, I will actually be loosing a significant about of weight in the front end cause the 1UZ is lighter then the 7M by a noticable amount. I am not sure of the exact amount of differance, but I do know that the front of the car will end up sitting almost a 1/2" higher with the 1UZ installed then with the 7M. The other added benefit is that the weight that is there ends up being shifted back towards the center of the car, So this will benefit handling also.

Any idea how the 1UZ weight compares to a 1JZ or 2JZ?
 

SySt

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I wonder how the 1UZ compares to an LS1, weight-wise. I know an LS1 weighs about 430lbs fully loaded. That includes all accessories including A/C, all ignition components, everything.

I do know my engine/transmission setup weighs about 500lbs give or take 25lbs. I beleive the 7m with R154 is somewhere around 700lbs? That is a huge weight difference right on the front end. All aluminum V8 Supras FTW.
 

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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The 1uz fully loaded soppostitly weighs in at 390lbs. I cant say that I have actually weighed it, but several reputible people have stated that, So I am going to take there word for it.

I have to say, I think that the LS1 is probably a better package due to HP and TQ output. I would have gone that route myself had the funds been availible
 

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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NashMan said:
so have you started to pull out your hair yet

Well not exactly yet, but I am getting close. So many little odd and ends to figure out and take care of. I am trying to figure out a way to build headers without the motor being in the car. The clearance is so tight especially on the driver side cause of the steering shaft that I dont think that I would be able to take the headers in and out with the motor in the car, not to mention that Its going to be almost impossible to even get in there to tac all the tubes together if done in the car. I think that I need to go and get a basic front clip with no motor or anything, just the basic sheet metal and crossmember. It sucks not being able to put the car down for a few weeks to take car of a lot of these little odd and ends.