when adjusting the TPS use aligator clips insted to the two little probes one the mulit meter, they are a lifesaver in this sort of situation.
also check spark plug wires, coil packs, and CPS. i had a similar problem and it turned out it was the result of a bad CPS
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its only half the battle getting the engine out. you still have to put the fucker back in and make it run. last thing you want is to chase down connections and figure what went where.
thats why im asking for driveability issues. if the car runs fine then at least hell be able to make his trip and can fix the problem later when he has more time. but if there is some issue that is interfearing with the driveability that should be addressed to prevent another falilur.
accepted!
now just as a quick thought, try clearing your codes, drive it around the block and check them again. what are some physical symptoms of the car, ie is it idling high/low, stumbling when driving, or is it just throwing the codes?
ya know i was all set to help just cuz i saw the frowney face but now....
lemme see if i understand this, you want help with your car, probably dont know jack yourself and so you asked the good folks here at Supramania. then because your question wan't answered in a timely fashion and because...
Fuel and more fuel, injectors, new fuel pump, AFPR. and yes an intercooler would be a good idea. exhaust mani's were a big concern of mine and they can range in price and get very expensive, all depends on how much your willing to spend, i my self spent $60 and got a Ct-T4 adaptor that bolts up...
i really doesn't sound like much. just air venting kindof a whooshing sound and much quiter. its nice on those long freeway rides home not hearing a long high pitched whistle
im no expert buy im going to guess anyway. im thinkin that your fine, the result of the readings is because the narrow band is inaccurate to begine with which is why your reading 15.0-15.1, the wideband is a lot more accurate so you may acctually be at ~15. either that or im thinking that it...
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