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while looking at the EFI section of the TSRM today, i saw a picture of the "fuel support". http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=87 what is its purpose? is every MK3 supposed to have this? because my 89 n/a doesnt have one. there is some kind of spacer in...

you WILL get a code 51 if you rev the car with the jumper wires in. it will show the code for a few secs, then when the idle is steady, the code will go away. if your just checking codes, the car can stay off. if your trying to adjust the TPS, then the car must be on. on a side note, i hope...

possibly u-joint, but im with HellsLegion on this one. just replaced my carrier bearing this past fall and no more vibration!

the light is on the left-most side of the gauge cluster, next to the water temp gauge.

just make sure you get it checked out soon. i had the same problem as you last summer, and it ended up being my first sign of BHG. bird cage light! lol

i had the same problem as you, my fuel pressure regulator was bad. not sure how to check if thats working or not, but just letting you know. good luck!

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6519&highlight=ffim

only mod i have is a K&N, and im n/a so "ringing its tits off" doesnt exist!

swapped tranny and converter from a 91 turbo a few weeks ago since my old converter was whining and slipping. fluid and filter were both changed.

ive owned the car 3 years now and its never seemed to do that before. yea that is right when the ACIS transition starts, but should it actually lug the motor down/cease power for those 2 seconds while it engages? i suppose ill check the vacuum hose that leads to the acis. ive never driven any...

while driving on the highway the other day i changed lanes to pass someone and noticed that i have a slight hesitation between 3800-4000rpm under moderate to full acceleration. in 2nd gear its barely noticeable and 3rd gear its very noticeable((f.y.i. auto tranny)). when i reach roughly 3800rpm...

pull the EFI fuse ((located in the fusebox by the battery)) for about 30secs and your codes will be cleared.

if you dont plan on fixing it right away i suppose you could drain the fluid, might make turning a little easier. i used to blow belts all the time because the seals in my steering rack were dried out. <<dont know what condition yours is in but check the tie rod boots, if there torn get them...

"dude wtf, your roof is leaking" "whats that noise?" "why is your speedometer so jumpy?" "why doesnt your oil pressure gauge work?" "does it have turbo?" ((sounds funnier when the polocks say it..."toorbo"))

a little more info on the 935motorsports pipe that chedderknight is referring to. https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1293

finally a simple fix. thanks for the quick reply!

i have an 89 n/a and just swapped in another auto tranny from a 91 turbo(swapped the trans ECU as well). speedometer now reads higher than actual vehicle speed, is it as simple as switching a cable to correct this? and would it beneficial to me to switch the factory 4.30 rearend to the 3.73...

if your referring to play in the front wheels then its probably ball joints. lowers can be bought at any auto parts store, for uppers you need a replacement control arm:(

could be your AFM. mine went bad and wouldnt idle right either, i had to keep it revved at lights like you did.

ahh, wrench on the crank pulley after my first BHG repair :( bye bye fan blades!