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for those of you who have done your own motor work, what is the proper way to install the #4 cap with all 4 of the thrust washers. that might give me an idea if im in the wrong or if something on my motor is not correct.

clearances are in spec, bearings are new, everything was perfect and smooth before i took the caps off, i just still dont get why only that cap doesnt want to go back on correctly... they are standard washers, btw.

IJ: with no thrust bearings its a little bit easier to turn, but still harder than it originally was before i took any of the caps off. with every other cap in, the crank spins just great, its only the #4 cap that makes it tight. bearings, caps and crank have not been changed fyi. I did change...

yes I plastigaged the bearings and everything is within spec. Cuel: u think i have them in back words, have what in backwords? i have the grooves facing out.

I took all the main caps off to put new bearings and ARP Main Studs. As soon as I put the #4 cap back on the crank gets VERY tight and the thrust bearing toward the flywheel begins to bind with the crank and i see metal shavings. I'm obviously putting the thrust bearings back in wrong even...

yea im guessing those are the thrust washers then. let me be a little more specific. when i took the pistons off the crank, it spun very nice and smooth. i took the factory main bolts out to put the ARP main studs in and when i got to the #4 cap i put the studs in, put the thrust washers in...

I went to install my ARP main studs last night and i ran into a problem! On the #4 cap, there are those spacers that go around the bearing and crank. I put the studs in and put the cap back on, now the crank is VERY hard to turn and when I turn it the spacers are binding because i can see...

I will be purchasing trans temp, water temp, and oil pressure gauges. I was just wondering where you guys mount all the sensors/probes and what is the most effective way to install them. thanks! -Steve

DegreE: i did call Toyota actually, they want 106$ for the water pump and $240 for the oil pump, seems a little high to me, thats why I was asking for alternative places that carry the OEM brand, Asian. BlackDynamite: thanks for the good info! I have most of the parts I need for the build...

I'm starting a rebuild on my 7m motor and i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get factory rings as well as Asian brand water and oil pump for cheaper than going to the dealer. Also, I will be purchasing a ball hone and i've seen them in 120, 180, 240, 320, and 400 grit. What grid...

On an n/a there isn't any real noticeable difference in performance. My test-pipe just changed the exhaust note slightly. Let's face it, n/a's are just slow, but I still love them regardless :)

First things first, start by checking your codes and see what you get. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx The TPS is located on the front side of the throttle body, it has a 4-wire plug going into it. When i had this problem it ended up being a bad air flow meter...

im taking it that no one has ever done a swap from a pre-89.5 to a post 89.5 car that has a different wiring harness... theres no way i can splice wires by the glovebox area to make it work? any info will be greatly appreciated.

i did a search for "resistor pack" and if im looking at the right thing then yes i swapped that over too. the only thing that is funny still are the few plugs that dont mate up right, in the glove box area, where the ECU plugs in.

both cars are auto so yes it is an auto harness. bypassing the neutral safety switch doesnt apply to me then right "fitoyota" ?? anybody else have ideas, or is this swap just not possible... thanks!

the motor, harness, and ECU are all from an 89, and they are going into a 91.

i am in the process of swapping an n/a motor into my turbo shell so i have something to drive for the next few weeks until my other 89 is back from the bodyshop. it was to my knowledge that as long as i have a motor with cooresponding ecu and wire harness, i should be in good shape. of course...

i just got a set of used lower and upper control arms from a SM member, bushings were good, and hell of a lot cheaper than the entire bushing kit!

looks like someone is in the same boat as me, i've replaced the speed sensor as well and still throwing code 61. flashing overdrive light is annoying!

i was referring to the cylindrical piece that the bracket is holding in place, the piece that both fuel lines connect to. because it looks like the size of a fuel filter or something like that from the looks of the pic. thanks for the sarcastic response though!