That is backwards, but you probably just typed it that way. 51 will go away when the throttle is set as already described in the thread. 31 should be checked with your multimeter set to Hz and reading the signal when running bad and running good. Then make sure the PCM is getting that signal if...
Something about? The CPS is cam position sensor. The PCM is not getting the signal. This is why when you wiggled the wires it started. They (wiring) need to be replaced.
Yes, your only deviation should be the torque value. Do what ARP says and do not deviate.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=32
A "coilover" is a shock or strut with the coil spring mounted on a spring perch attached to the damper itself. Hence the name, coil over shock. It has nothing to do with aftermarket or adjustability. FYI.
Assuming you know what cooked coolant smells like, there is only two ways to get coolant in the combustion chamber. One, the chamber is compromised. Two, coolant into the intake manifold. There are coolant lines on the throttle body that keep the incoming charge temps constant.
Crushing a harness when putting things back together. Since you are looking for ideas....
And if there is no code, it will constantly flash with TE1 and E1 jumped.
In your thread title, you said the injectors are not pulsing. And I was thinking about other things beside your car. My bad.
The computer grounds the injectors in group series of the firing order. Battery power is constant to the injectors with the key in the on or crank position with the...
Because you are using a different engine and harness, then I can't really comment about the 1JZ (ha ha) part. The sensor (common 3 wire) varies the resistance between the gauge and ground. In order for that to happen, you do not have resistance. Said another way, you have 12 volts at the signal...
Is it supposed to do that? The airflow meter is not used to start the engine, the STA signal is. That also retards the ignition for the low cranking rpm.
No. But you could have a large intake leak you do not know about.
And that is what an intake leak acts like, as does the engine out of...
This seems wrong. More like oil starvation from lack of replenishment. Or the wrong grade of oil. Something like a 40 or 50 grade that just doesn't flow good unless it is 300 degrees.
Assuming you made no assumptions, this is correct logic. Good job. Of course, you already posted your block test, I just wanted to show you did it right, unlike many others here.
No matter how bad you don't want it to be true.
Are you typing with a baseball mitt?
A rebuilt/new engine needs to crank fast for a bit to build cylinder pressure and start. If you have compression leaking out the side of the head somewhere, it probably isn't going to start.
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