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Does anyone know of way to test the fuel pressure regulator without a fuel pressure gauge? I am having trouble finding one at my local auto stores with a banjo fitting. Is there a way to test it in or out of the car. Because I think that why my car wont start.

So I am changing the fuel filter and the spark plugs tomorrow as a last resort. I have checked all that I can think of from the TSRM. Is there anything that isn't mentioned in the first post I could have missed? Please Help!:1zhelp: Thanks for all the info!

I just swapped my N/A tach for a Turbo tach. Works great! There are also diagrams floating around showing you which resistors need to be changed to properly calibrate the N/A tachs to work with the 7mgte setup.

It's not necessary the amount of times you wax your vehicle it is how you wax it and with what. Also use clean microfiber pads. Always claybar before doing polishing. And always use a good wax. My favorite products are from Adam's and Griot's Garage. An orbital buffer can do wonders for tired...

1.Running you amp/subs off your stock head unit will work but is not your best option due to very poor sound quality. 2. Your amp will power your subs, but they will not run at optimal capacity due to the small continuous wattage of the amplifier. Your amp is better suited for a pair of...

I really like the AEM tru-boost, solenoid seems to be of good quality, plus doubles as a sweet boost gauge if you don't already have a nice one!:icon_bigg

Yeah I did test from E2 to 10, 20 and #30 on the ECU like the TSRM states (could have confused the numbers now since the TSRM isn't in front of me but I know I did it right and got about 12.5 V or so on all three leads.) So from my understanding those three supply power to all six injectors...

Ok, I tested the fuel pump by linking the fp and b+ in the diagnostic box. I know there is pressure because I loosened the cold start injector and it had pressure. I need to check actual psi as I guess incorrect pressure or not enough could cause the injectors to not open. If the pressure is...

Well I did a Walbro "upgrade" just because the factory pump had 136, xxx miles on it so I also did the 12v mod. The resistors are in place on the drivers side. All the connectors on the factory engine harness are plugged up just not a couple that come from the body harness of the turbo shell. As...

The GE 380cc (i think thats the size?). Basically, since a little background may help... I purchased a 87 Turbo towards the end of 2006 and used the motor to swap into my 1986.5. Since the body of 87 was rough but the interior was near perfect I decided to fix it instead of crushing it. So I...

I haven't checked voltage at the injectors yet. I didn't know which of the two wire to put my positive lead on and which to ground to?:3d_frown: I am using the GE ecu that is the original from the engine. What should I try if there is voltage at the injectors which I would guess there isn't...

:1zhelp: So I am doing a 1986.5 7mge swap into a 87 Turbo Shell and I got everything all installed and ready to start and the car cranks but will not start. Things I have checked and/or tried per TSRM: 1. Checked for spark (+) 2. Checked timing (+ everything was aligned properly) 4. Checked...

BillUK you are awesome! That is exactly what I needed! Thanks a lot everyone who replied! Trevor

Thanks Rennat, that is what I thought... sort of! Does anyone know the size for the intake manifold bolt, one listed in original post (P/N# 91611-60825)? Thanks guys!

Thanks for responding MK3Runner but I already know the part numbers, I am just looking for someone who knows the actual sizes of the bolts like Toyota lists for the brake caliper bolt (8-1.25PX65-15). I need to know what exactly that means? And what size the intake manifold bolt is...

Hey I just had a quick question for those who know a lot more about bolt sizes than I do! I am looking for Toyota Part number 91611-60825 (intake manifold bolt) and Toyota Part Number 47721D (rear brake caliper bolt) Toyota gives the sizes as 8-1.25PX65-15 for the caliper bolt and I can't...

Ok, so now I am interested. So JJ what are we to do with this little black box that is for ground loop isolation purposes I am guessing? I have one on my hanger and I spliced it into the ground... So far it has been working fine but who knows...

I just ordered the top piece from Jeff Watson at Champion and it cost me like 72 bucks. So they are pretty pricey but then again so is a speeding ticket!!:nono: Good Luck

Yeah, that sounds like rod knock. A pretty bad one at that! I would pull the motor check your tolerences or have a machine shop do it and put some good bearing in there. (clevittes 77 are nice!) Good Luck!

Ok, thats what I thought! Thanks a lot Shaeff. Maybe I will just try extending the cable????