Yeah right! Those are my wheels 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 with 235/40/18 and 265/35/18 Falken FK-452 tires.
For $1280.00 they can be your wheels and tires too!
I went :biglaugh: when you turned the camera outside! I guess you can't drive it with 3 ft of snow in your driveway. It sounds great, I wish you could drive it!
The metal can capacitors are electrolytic, those are the ones that are prone to failure. Mylar caps are usually fairly high quality.
I don't have one and I don't have any detonation issues :dunno:
If it is for detonation reduction why is there no egr on the Japanese engines?
The intake manifold and the intake runners stay cleaner without it too.
It has a higher reserve capacity, and a higher cca rating then the standard deep cycle yellow top. It is a better battery, but it's a lot more expensive.
Red top or blue top Optima ftw, the yellow top is not worth the extra money imho.
I have had two yellow tops in the past and neither one lasted more then 2 years. If you kill a yellow top dead from leaving headlights or ignition on, it usually does not come back. Blue top is deep cycle but...
Can't you just rename it and then upload your new index? Like add "old" to the file name, then upload your new file, and if anything is wrong you can change the name back.
We finished installing everything but the emanage and boost control, cranked it over a for a bit to prime the turbo, put the efi fuse in and it started right up. Sounded great. Made sure the brakes and clutch we working ok and took it down the street and back, no problems. First stop was the gas...
Don't forget you will also have to spend money on an alignment afterwords, and changing out that whole crossmember is a whole lot more work then modding the engine mounts on the one already in the car.
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