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No, this all was happening a few years ago before I knew about SM and the experts that reside here:)

Sounds like the battery to me also, been there done that.

That's what it was IJ, the bottom of the bores had to be clearenced for the extra stroke, there was also a rod that was hitting the area were the oil pump mounts that had to have a little taken off. Thanks for jogging my memory:)

I had done some autocrossing also, didn't have a problem then, well didn't notice any. When I started running at Sebring, a lot harder braking and harder corners at higher speeds was when I found the problem. Threw a rod the first time, then spun 2 rod bearings after that before I realized what...

Yes that spun a bearing for sure. Had you drove it much more it could have thrown the rod. Black I think hit the nail on the head, probably wasn't clearanced properly when it was rebuilt. If yopu were to plasticgauge the others you will probably find that they are not sized right either. The...

I'd say get better rods, Eagles is what I settled on, they came with ARP bolts. Just a little insurance. The crank can be balanced if it's knife edged. There are ways to get by the stock rev limit, I know there are a few threads that have mentioned it. I have seen 7300-7400 rpm with mine...

Are you sure it's the right filter and nothing like oil is comming out the bottom? I know those are simple questions but if that's all you did....

Yes Flatlander has the Wiseco, were I got mine. Well said Tireshedder :)

Yes, you have to change the oil pan and oil pump. Why not rebuild the one you have?

How many miles on that motor? Looks like it had been rebuilt not too long ago due to the shiney paint on the block and clean head on the outside.

Sounds like it to me also. Your timing belt looks a little loose in the video.

Yep the best bet is a salvage yard or in the WTB section. Don't believe it can be rerouted.

Thashed oil pump drive gear, hope to be able to change my vote tomorrow to running fine :)

What is actually broken? the tube that goes into the lower intake. If it screws in just get a used one. I can't recall if it screws in or is pressed in.

Yeah I know just pointing out there is a few other threads about strokers. I was looking for the one that tells you a little more about piston speed and how to figure it.

There are a few of us that have been running a stroker for a while now with out any problems. And several other threads on stroked 7M's http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75181&highlight=stroked+7m

Hard weld regrind cams are fine. A lift of .400+ would be very close to an interference motor. You might have to make room for the extra lift. Also if you go with bigger valves that would be a concern. I would think the BBC springs could rev 7500-8000. It's keeping everything else in...

If you are not going to stroke it the piston speed shouldn't be a problem. If you are or if not then lighter weight components, i.e. pistons, rods, and a lightened, flycut, and balanced crank helps with the piston speed not to mention the lighter components will make it rev faster. I've seen...

Not the wrong section to post. I'd say 250-275, sure should rev pretty quick.

4-5 heat cycles is enough to retorque.