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i could've sworn that that gasket wasnt or shouldn't be metal, but i could be wrong. i might be thinking of something else. it was that paper type..or whatever that paperish material is. did you make sure to clean the mating surfaces good? i wouldnt use fipg as that shouldnt be needed for...

too bad you dont live close by. i would charge you $300.00 for labor and take your whole motor out and redo all the seals and it'll come with 12month 15k mile waranty or i would tell you how to do it for free. i guess from my first post i was right about the bhg..brownie points for me. you...

at startup do you see any puff of smoke and what kind of color if there is? are you for sure loosing coolant fluid would you say? if you're loosing coolant (i'm not saying it is) but it could be leaking inbetween a cylinder and creating the bad idle. just do a compression check real quick...

make sure you DIDNT use power steering fluid. a lot of people do that and get your symptoms or weird steering issues, i've seen it happen. use atf fluid.

unless you dont mind the tedious work of swapping every single thing over, i honestly think you'll be just fine doing the motor swap. you might be biting off more then you can chew with doing other things so keep it simple. they are pretty harsh there with the whole plate cancle thing. do...

at least you're honest enough not to pull the "oh my neck and back hurts now" like millions of other people out there and get a few thousand dollars. and at least he was honest enough to admit fault which you're not supposed to. glad it turned out like this.

so have you had this issue while the afc was working good?

I dont think its the cold start because he was already driving when this happened which meant that his car started up fine and should've been warm already. I would check your wiring with the afc to the ecu first. regardless of engine start..no start..whatever..it should still stay turned on...

even if they ship it in a box, that is still rediculous...unless its 2-3 days shipping..but not for standard ground shipping 5-10 business days. did you ask them why it was so much? if they say thats what they charge..then get the weight...dimensions...and call their shipper direct and get a...

didnt someone prove with evidence and facts that the 2jz head flows better stock for stock? i know for a fact its on the boards somewhere..or might've been supraforums.com but i know its there and been proven that 2jz head has better flow

its how you set the upgrades. i've seen 1jz's torque match there hp's quite a few time. you definitely dont want to deal with sourcing parts out..time consuming..is the part going to work...etc..it'll add up quick front clip..everythings there and you can ALWAYS sell the left overs and...

might have an issue idling when cold out, but if its warm i think you should be fine. my iacv doesnt work and i have a hard time when its cold out (40ish degree F)...it'll lope around 400 so i have to hold the throttle down for a few seconds. I also do have cams though. what really help me...

wish you could bring your ride to the states. its worth paying to see that

just turn your boost down to 12psi and see if you still hit fuel cut. go on from there.

6 volt? you mean rewire the resistor back? you shouldnt be that much more rich because your fpr does most of that part. this is why i always recommend getting a quality wideband...so you arent taking guesses. what are you using to tune if any? do you have an aftermarket fpr that you...

i know, as you do, a lot of nissan guys do this. might want to read up on what problems they have..tuning issue/s, etc i know its a different engine, but similar concept. Could give you an idea of future problematic issues

i have my reasons, in which i refuse to say because you are a man of great intelligence and i know you will say something to prove me wrong lol yes i'm a stubborn asshole. :biglaugh:

i say for a lot of people, oil cooler is useless. but buying an aftermarket one is pretty easy to make it fit. i know on my brothers rx7 they have quite a bit bigger oil cooler then the 7ms. might be a possible upgrade.

does the $600 include taking the transmission out? if so, thats not a bad deal at all. I would buy the upgraded bearings though and have them install that too if they are willing. some shops will only waranty the parts that THEY buy. It should not down the cost a little bit on their part being...

bitchin numbers! i have a feeling those are going to do the trick.