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Can someone tell me the address of this location? I work for LKQ and it might be one of our yards as we own a crap load of salvage yards. If so I might be able to hook everyone up on better deals.

I forgot how it hooks up, but I had major issues with the profec b also. switched over to manual control and worked perfect. I would look into how to test the solenoid.

Agreed. I say do a compression check. If it's all good I wouldn't touch it. Maybe retorque the bolts, but the old saying is true: "if it aint broke, don't fix it"

I'm out of the supra game for now. I bought a mr2 n/a. What are you driving or working on?

agreed with everyone else. you can also use kenne bell bap when you up the boost. I know a couple mk4 guys using it on stock tt pump and doing just fine, also pushing 500+hp.

you have to remember you have to custom fit which will be more money. i think a proper setup is definitely worth the money. just make sure what you are buying is top notch. dont want it to fail on you.

i would keep an eye on 3 and 4. do a compression check w/in a few thousand miles. if they both get lower there might be a leak inbetween those 2 cylinders. not saying there is, but because they are both low i would be cautious.

for sure get a wideband o2 with data logging. do all your tuning yourself especially with just an safc.

what are your mods and has it always been doing this or just slowly started to? from what i've seen, the cps wires are usually the things that go bad...not the actual cps itself. so it doesnt idle at all? if it does is the rpm bouncy or steady?

oh really? i never knew that. thanks. and it def. should at least blink non stop if there is no codes.

you're not suppose to start your car. just switch to ignition

exactly right. you will need a long as extension for that pita top bolt...other wise you'll never get out easy. dont replace the starter with a reman one. when working for toyota i've never replaced a whole starter in my life, just replace the contacts which should not be more then $50-60.00...

okay when you gave it direct power did you give it a direct negative and positive? cuz you mentioned just positive. you could've easily just checked at the connector if you were getting voltage. anywho, if you did that and it still didnt work then i'd say its your fuel pump. put your old one...

if you tweak the screw it should only affect rpm rise cuz its just like you have your foot on the throttle very little. i wouldnt touch it too much though...if you are relying on it for idle you are having issues else where. i think the 1jz suppose to idle at 650-700rpm

check the wires going to your alternator on the positive side. sometimes it'll get brittle causing very little connection...giving you that affect. also what is your voltage reading at idle?

whats makes you think the injectors arent firing? you can it with the multi meter right at the connection and you'll know right away. was it running before the swap with this harness?

take them off...clean and reseal it. they are a pain in the ass to take off...at least from my experience so make sure you have a long long breaker bar. another thing you could do before going through the trouble of that just to make sure is when the engine is at operating...

you live in cali, there are tons of 1jz guys around you to borrow an ecu from.

are you saying that its hard to start when cold or it'll start but wouldn't want to idle when cold? i had the same issue of it starting always but would not want to idle and if it did, it'll idle at like 400rpm or sometimes barely. the iscv i believe part of its signal is from the...

jump fb and +b on the diag box. you can usually hear a clean smooth flow of fuel. what color smoke coming out the tail pipe when this happens? i cant imagine its clear. i'd check the fuel pressure before you check the fuel pump...much easier doing that first.