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Well, I completed this but totally forgot to grind that backing plate down, and what an AWFUL noise that makes haha. It's such a HUGE improvement though, especially with my Wilwood 13" front kit. I used 3mm washers, Agency Power Evo lines, M10x1.5x40mm grade 10 bolts, and Stoptech rotors...

make a custom bracket for the stock JZA70 one; that's what I did and it works just fine with my 31x12x3

get aftermarket pedal covers.. you have to cheat up a bit on the brake pedal, but it can be done this way.

I don't think you'd be too pleased with an HX40 on a 1J.. Stick with the 35.

Yeah, don't use logic here.. that's for those "intelligent" folk.

I'd feel the need to start shit too if I paid all that money to re-engineer a motor to be almost as good/as modern as a JZ.

I found the under tray to not be half as useful as what folks on here say. We did some runs logging on other cars, like Skylines with and without, and it didn't make much difference, at least not compared to rad fans, shrouds, forward ducting and thicker rad. To each his own; I do however...

Yeah, they don't even break a sweat at 700whp... There's a few guys in Orlando that have been making 600 for years on stock, higher mileage bottom ends lol.

It's been posted many, many times.. 3400cfm for clutch fan and 4000cfm for hydro (both +/-).

ducting is your friend, but that aside 2200cfm is awful in comparison to clutch fan, and the hydro-fan is another fair step beyond that (for the sake of argument).

lol

they did come with the Momo knob; it looks exactly like the stock knob except the entire top is covered in leather, and it says Momo below the stamped shift pattern. I have seen a few over the years, but they aren't anything special other than a collector's item, and they're worn out 9/10 times.

yeah, people already had parts/money into their 1J heads and also wanted to trick the inspectors at the Shaken (J-DOT). I tell ya what though, that port velocity issue is a benefit depending on what you're doing :)

(sigh)

I don't really understand why folks would go for the reds over the yellow for a street car, but I guess that's how it goes. if it's a racecar, then I would :)

as others have said, check the diff lash.. really common unfortunately.

There is simply no reason to not do the 1.5J over this... none. It's more displacement, cheaper, easier, and you can use parts that aren't one-offs. this is beyond illogical..

+1 ^ the original ones (Nur Spec R) are pretty long.. mine didn't come with one, but I've seen and held them multiple times.

That's what I worried about. I'm super happy to hear the rust didn't make it to the body.

Ouch! I hope it works out for you man.