Yeah, but I apparently have the wrong motor for what I was looking for. All I wanted was something that was reliable that could hold over 500hp. What I got was an engine that is setup to only make power with a monster turbo on it at high rpms. Kinda sucks, but it is what it is. :(
I got a call from Peter last night saying the car is done. Can't say that I'm not more than a little disappointed with the output. Since the engine is pretty much a drag engine and I'm running a bolt-on turbo and 550ccfuel injectors, it runs out of fuel at just over 5000rpms. The head outflows...
Maybe so, but all I need is a laptop to adjust the AEM. I was told that the ProEFI needs to b attached to the OEM ECU to get the initial maps as well as to makr any changes. Makes no sense to me. The ProEFI sounded awesome when I first read about it, but without local support, I'm not taking...
I was told that the ProEFI is very difficult to get the initial tune setup and the end user would need to bring the car back to the tuners everytime he wants to adjust anything. Not looking for that.
You shouldn't just see what local tuners are using. You should research the best tuner in your area and use whatever they recommend. I was really trying to go the ProEFI route, but nobody around me uses them, and ISP Racing, who is one of the best tuners in my state does not like ProEFI. So I...
I just dropped my 90 Supra off last week for an AEM V1 install and tune. It's as plug and play as you're going to find in a standalone. The map and temp sensors are cake to wire in. Map is 3 wires and the temp is 2. You can even save a few bucks by getting GM sensors instead of the AEM ones. I...
Spoke with Peter over at ISP in Beltsville MD yesterday. He agrees that standalone is the way to go at this point. I'm not arguing with that guy. So I'm taking the dive into AEM since it is supported the most. Should be around $2500 for the hardware and tune. Can't say I'm dying to squeeze my...
I wouldn't think there are any vacuum leaks seeing how it pulls nearly -22psi at idle. Also, I'm running a vpc so air is only metered after the throttlebody. The cams are supposedly raised stock cams, but I was never sent the specs. I was told it was pretty mild and they were modified to produce...
I bought the longblock off of a SF member years ago. Claimed to have dumped nearly $10k into it at the time. He ran it for a few thousand miles with a 76mm turbo and made nearly 700hp. Of course, he was on standalone. I put on a factory manifold, bolt-on turbo and 1jz FFIM but that shouldn't...
So what is making it sound like a diesel engine? Does timing being off make an engine sound like that? Or is it something internal like the cams? I don't hear any knocking, pinging or tapping so I assume it's mechanically fine. When I had the valve covers and oil pan off it was spotless inside.
That's what I figured. My AF's are stable at idle as well. Plus wouldn't the wrong O2 throw a code? I'm actually surprised that if the 1jz TPS was not compatible, it would throw a code as well, but I have no ECU codes.
Did not adjust the tps per tsrm since the tolerances are close, but not exact. I set the TPS to where the ECU received an idle signal (IDL grounded to E2), right around .49v)
During the video it was at 22psi, I've had it as high as 28psi, but it doesn't seem to make any difference at all...
IBoughtASupra, does the ProEFI or AEM have support for the factory IACV?
Mike, any idea why I'm experiencing these issues? Once again, not trying to go standalone unless I have to.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.