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Personally I wouldn't buy any of those large items unless they were local. Shipping will be insanely expensive.

In USD, $250 would be a great deal for all if they are in good shape. On the high end if purchased separately, I'd be thinking $100 for each fender, $150 for the front bumper and $50 for the sideview mirror. For those prices they'd have to be cherry and in the color you need to avoid the expense...

A/F's look good!

I found my Aeromotive AFPR would bleed off pressure almost instantly once the fuel pump was shut off. I used a smoke leak tester on the AFPR's input from the intake manifold and smoke started pouring out of the top adjustment screw. So much so that I figured it must be causing problems. At the...

I bought the last new shift knob from Toyota around a year ago for $115.

Pre-89, non-turbo, Automatic, blue on blue, sitting for years and title issues. Sheesh, I'd say $2500-$3000 max.

^ Yeah, watch the For Sale forums on here and SF and check ebay frequently. That's about your only options. Or get lucky at a junk yard (fat chance).

^ Where those infact made specifically for the A70? Either way, they look great.

I agree that an FFIM conversion on a 7M is mostly cosmetic, but two of the main reasons I performed it was for easier access around the engine bay and better choices of intercoolers.

Depends on how you fabricate it. I have the 7M upper runners welded directly into the 1JZ plenum so there is a nice smooth flow. I'm putting down good power with my current setup and the throttle response and spool are great. I'm not saying that a Sethron or RonR FFIM wouldn't be an improvement...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?98641-Operation-quot-Can-t-hear-shit-quot-*Pics*&highlight=operation+can%27t+hear+shit

I had to take a heat gun to my 2 gauge pillar due to improper fitment between the dash and windshield. Fitment was way off.

I just had Freed Engineering in Gambrils MD dyno tune my 7M and they did a great job. Very fair prices too compared to others that I have used. Ben the owner is awesome and doesn't mind taking the time to answer any questions you might have. He drives a beautiful TT Supra that I saw parked out...

I could only order the 2j's IAC valve's rubber grommet and diaphram from Toyota. The diaphram appears to sit flush, but the grommet that sits on top of it was about 2mm too tall. After installation, I can hear air pushing out of the valve when I open the throttle body. I ground down the grommet...

Funny, because the exact same thing happened to me. I still have the wrong friction plate laying around. It lined-up just like what you have pictured. Any idea what vehicle flywheel it was for?

Not sure how fast it'll be with full interior, sound system and 8 gallons of sound deadener. Plus I currently can't get the power down as I'm losing traction at 4800rpm with 275's on the back (Michelin Pilot MX Sports). Need to get slicks on there. Also I'm going to be leaving the Supra here for...

Here's what I was able to put down with a bolt-on Turbonetics Hifi 62-1. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?172038-7m-dyno-s-at-467whp-with-bolt-on-turbo-*-dyno-vid-and-chart-*

Checked over all connections today and everything looked fine. Won't be able to check voltage until tommorrow tho.

Yeah, probably not the smartest move, but it doesn't appear I caused any internal damage. Luckily the electric issue isn't affecting the EMS. Not sure why. I had a friend who is very good with these cars check it out and he said that the wb gauge was not reading correctly and there was no way it...

Brake fluid is full and reservoir cap is plugged in. Won't have time to pull ABS codes until later in the week. And the abs is the least of my worries right now. More concerned as to what is wreaking havoc on the electrical system.