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Yea actually, i was thinking on that dwell part, i think that may be the "heavy" feeling that hunt now has with his, but he is going to get it retuned with that ignitor and it does seem ALOT simpler hehe :)

The part number is J723T, has 2 plugs, 6 pin & 3 pin. Its defintely easier than messing around with diodes hehe, and it's a much smaller ignitor. Edit: No clue to whether they're the 3000gt ignitor, over here they're on the 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0L Gaylants (Galant). Just make sure it's from a...

i'm using my stock digital gauges to compare to which unlike analog are quite accurate and definitely are not slow moving. Thanks for that suggestion dbsupra, i'll heatwrap the sender and see if that helps :)

I guess it's time to ask directly :) Who else has oil pressure and how much is it out by? I have had a new sender sent by Prosport very quickly which was wonderful of them but both are 20psi out, and thats alot to be out. I have replied to their last message with no response, i'm assuming it's...

Toyota has been known to screw up, at least in Japan to here lol. I doubt they messed up the pre 89 & 89+ thing tho. My mums supra "body" is a 2.5ttr with the ttr interior finishings without the actual seats & center bits on the doors etc. It had the badging all round, open the bonnet and low n...

I was using the multimeter on diode mode - but testing with the diode still in the loom. I will take the loom apart tomorrow and test all 5 diodes individually. From my understanding coil 1 fires with IDGA, coil 2 fires with IGDB and coil 3 fires with both IGDA and IGDB - but I'm now confused...

Hey Aaron, I have tried new leads and plugs and coils and ignitor to no avail How do I test the diodes? At the ignitor end if I put a multimeter in continuity mode and test IGDA, which is PINK at the ECU plug, I should also see continuity on IGT on the ignitor? The resistance between ECU and...

also to add: Have swapped in 3 different coil sets & changed ignitor Voltage on cranking on each of the coil signal wires is from 1.25-2.73 in increasing increments to back down again, all 3 are reading very similar. When the car starts cranking to fire the timing light signal is normal...

hehe the 620cca might have something to do with it, it has no choice but to turn over and very quickly haha it starts no problem at all ever. Maybe my multimeter is a bit fubar but then the battery readings match the other 2 voltmeters

Been running the stereo for a good 4 hours haha 1. 12.7 2. 12.6 3. 9.8

I have NO emergency lights, driving or idle... did you read my post about the regulator? Regulators don't cause the charge light to come on, did your high beam light flick on and off with your hazard switch too? I dont think its wiring related to the relocation, I don't know if you have read...

Mine is the 100amp alternator :) Now after analysing my car a little bit over the last couple of days i have started pointing towards two things. The regulator in my alternator is dying and/or i have a ground missing in my digital dash. I get no emergency lights on the dash while...

Remind me how to do that again LOL So a couple of things i noticed about this problem, when driving charging is perfectly fine = 14.3-14.4v. As soon as the car shifts to 2nd coming back down to idle the voltage will start dropping to 12.7 or so, sitting at idle it continues to fall in...

i have the main block ground, and another ground and a ground on the head. The battery seems to be travelling through chassis ok as i tested directly from battery terminal to front and tested a bolt and engine, manifold, throttlebody, cam covers and all are grounded very well.

My battery grounds on the strut with clean washers and bolts for good contact. My grounds are uber uber good, tested with a multimeter from battery to a ground point in engine bay and was 0.00, checked random bolts up there too and they're well grounded also :)

Hey ya'll I noticed last night some charging issues. If it continues this way i think i'll end up shagging out my 100amp stock alternator ;) The alternator is charging fine but it is having trouble keeping up with the things i have running. It was 14 or so volts when i started it, no...

so i tried my el cheapo digi mulimeter for giggles and it read 56 so i guess it's down to the gravity drain effect :)

well the analog multimeter i had is really really old but still worked haha... i didn't know which was milivolts on it so i just set it to everything else other than 10 and the meter didn't move at all when in the radiator so i guess it's ok lol

good article :D +1 buttttt i believe this was written by an englishman. Being that they are still saying that the turbo wasn't introduced till 87, geez we had them long before that and awesome facts, a turbo r with a 3.0L and digital dash.. whatever! i mean make up your mind, is it...

what is your oil pressure at idle? People with unshimmed oil pumps preferably hehe curiosity :)