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I found my loose mirror was actually broken internally at the mount. If someone bangs into your mirror walking by your car in a parking lot, it will very likely break since there is no spring loaded breakaway in them.

That tells you the AC amp is not signaling ac, but you already knew that. Basic question: Is the blower running and the controller temp display lit up? If it is, do you have 12V on the 10 amp A/C fuse? If so, then provide voltages on each of the 4 pins of the A/C magnet relay.

I'm not sure that air temp hysteresis is the cause. I have datalogged THA and it tends to be very high even with the factory cold air intake. This is due I think to heat soak from the AFM which sits near the exhaust manifold. This temp will drop with higher air flow as the intake cools down. I...

The wiring diagram is useful for sure, but start with the troubleshooting chart. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=15

Oxalic acid flush http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?122206-Oxalic-acid-flush-created-something-when-neutralized..&p=1559199&viewfull=1#post1559199

I would be worried about your coolant. Looks to have caused a lot of internal corrosion. The carbon buildup is normal.

Stock bushings do not work with Lipp traction arms, You will be poly on those ones, and they do make weird bark sounds when traversing large bumps even with the sticky lube in place.

Ummm, Post #11 had all the info you were seeking.

Find which one you need from this link, then order from any online toyota dealer. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=8715&P=1

Replace all 4 seals on the front. Also put a dab of FIPG on the crank snout where the timing belt pulley sits so it doesn't leak through the center of the pulley. Replace CPS o-ring and check that no oil is leaking internally through the CPS oil-seal. Finally, pay attention to the FIPG points...

There is essentially no difference in NOx standards between EU and US. Standards are complex, but you can see the numbers are pretty close.

I have no desire to go back to the old pieces of crap that used to be sold as cars. Horrible running carb'd engines that had flat spots, surging and poor cold driveability. There was nothing good about any of that. The handling was crappy, the ride was noisy, the engines lethargic, the non-ABS...

No o-ring on mine. If the factory wanted to seal that interface they would use a gasket, not an o-ring. It would need a radial groove added to the sensor head for an o-ring application. In any case, you can tell its obviously tapered just from installing the sensor.

Whatever you choose, make sure it is shielded.

check engine light turn on with the key in the run position?

I replaced a bunch of bushings last year and the only reason I did was because they were frozen to the adjusting cam bolts. As far as the rubber was concerned, not a single one was torn. I am sure they could have gone for another 150kmiles easy as they appear to be indestructable.

The bushing at the hub end for control arm #2 is a spherical bearing. Replacing it with anything other than the Toyota OEM part has caused arm failures. Also explains why it costs so much compared to the rest of the bushings.

The Supra era (including mk4) ECUs are programmed at the chip foundry and cannot be changed. In other words, a set of photo masks are used to define the top metal layers of the chip and set the values of the ROM memory. They cannot be changed after that. The software version is actually printed...

That was my point.

It seems likely that Toyota did not use a thermostatic system because they could not get the reliability they needed from it. (Back in the 80s Toyota was so far ahead of their competitors on QA that they literally taught the industry how to do it.) While it is obvious from looking at your temp...