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A good writeup on what you are trying to do can be found here: http://www.clickdesign.co.uk/supradupra/html/hid_dip___full_mod.html

No, I don' think there is any danger. They flow a lot of fuel at high duty cycle.

Yup. Idle vacuum is around -10 psi (-0.7 bar, 20 in Hg) .

Only negative in my opinion is they are steel and prone to rusting out. Not a big problem where I live, but I've seen photos of some pretty badly rusted ones.

Its all in the TSRM, but the answer is 60 deg to go from soft to firm.

First car sold for $15k. By the way, I have the battery wings on my car. I'm sure lots of people do.

HKS does. That is an HKS LET-T16 if the pipe diameter is 75mm. Have one on my car. http://www.driftmotion.com/LET-T16-p/dm1585.htm

I would recommend changing out those injectors. They have pretty long deadtime compared to the stock injectors the ECU is calibrated for. Not really appropriate unless you can modify the internal ecu code. Better of using some RC 550s.

Sounds like a blocked return line.

Any chance the BOV is vented to atmosphere? That would could cause your problem.

That could be a trailing throttle fuel cut problem, which would mean your TPS is out of adjustment. I would check for a code 51 before doing anything else. When the throttle snaps shut the ECU should cut fuel until the rpm drops to 1200. You can test it per this check in the TSRM, but that...

I take it you have an automatic. The starter trick is fine to get it off, but how would you torque it back up to 195ft-lbs. It is critical to torque it back to spec or it will come loose and destroy the crank and pulley.

The only difference in the test between GE and GTE is the thickness of the feeler gauges used. Everything else is identical. Why do you think 700 rpm is low?

The sensor case is the other wire, so it is possible to measure a resistance, but that would not be the normal way to test them as they are basically a microphone.

No, because you set to the IDL signal, not VTA. But whatever, its you car running like crap, not mine. LOL at your post #16 on code 51. Gee, do you think that might be related!

5M head + 5M crank = 5M engine! No?

Adjust TPS by looking for code 51 with correct feeler gauge in the throttle stop. What's so hard about doing it right?

The exhaust cam seal is the one that turns to stone from the heat. The others are less likely to be leaking. You can drill a hole in the seal, drive a screw in it, and then use a slide hammer puller to get it out. With the cam in place not much room to get a seal puller in there and you might...

NE is very sensitive. Don't touch it. You can find the tach signal on pin 4 of connector M1 near the ECU. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=136

For mine I repaired it with epoxy, but I hit it again some time after the repair walking by the car and now it is loose again. :-(