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I wish he'd produce one of these for the 7M. I doubt there'd be many takers tho, so probably not worth the r&r. :3d_frown:

Well, it fits. Barely.

I'm in the process of installing my new 200A "Big Body" Alternator. Not sure if this is an MR2 casing or what, but it is definitely bigger than the 130A alternator that I am replacing. Weighs almost double the amount as well. You can see just how much larger the windings are on the...

I always wondered how one would set the belt tension with this style of bracket?

^ Strange that they never gave me that option when I spoke with them last week.

To me, it looks like the alternators sold by driftmotion and suprastore are identical to the ones on ebay. Which my research shows are hit or miss. Mechman is definitely the way to go, but they don't make one for the 7M and I don't feel like modifying the case on a $499 alternator and risk...

No, not running a thermostat would not cause this. Sound to me like you have a leak (internal or external), large enough to where when the engine cools, it's pulling in air from the leak rather than coolant from the overflow. I would not run a thermostat until diagnosing and fixing your coolant...

^ 100A OE options are all I have come across which were from the 2nd gen MR2 models with power steering. If you're referring to aftermarket rebuilds, 130 and 160 amp alternators are already available for the 7M. Performance/Reliabilty seems hit or miss tho.

^ Very cool. Thanks.

^ I don't see any plug'n'play options for the 7M. What's required to use the 2jz alt on a 7m? I did come across this 200A "big body" alternator on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-200-Amp-Big-Body-ALTERNATOR-TOYOTA-SUPRA-1989-90-91-1992-3-0L-/281678539527

My high output ebay alternator's bearing is noisy and only charges at 13.6 volts when hot. I've been running a 46mm overdrive pulley on it, that I'm fairly certain is what's killing it (only have maybe 2000 miles on it). Rather than going the ebay (cheapest) route, I was wondering if I'd be...

Those Contour fans move a lot of air, but are one of the thicker fan options I've come across. I had to ditch them for some weaker FAL's since they were the only ones thin enough to allow my charge pipe to squeeze past it. Now, I run a 7mgte and a Fluidyne radiator, so apple's and oranges here...

Definitely not coolant or oil. I thought it was water from condensation build-up for the longest time, but it was always gold in color. Then I thought that it was just picking up the color from other crap that was down there. Well, I cleaned up the area spotless and low and behold, still light...

Picture is just for reference to the area I'm referring to. About a half ounce of the mystery liquid collects every 50 miles of driving. The fluid has no smell and no viscosity to it. Very watery and light gold in color. Injectors look dry. No oil dripping from valve cover area. Could the intake...

Mine is lockable. I assumed they all were.

Running JE pistons with Crower rods for years. Sounds similar to yours until warmed up. Then pretty quiet overall.

My guess is that this was an ebay ddp that was originally made for a ct-26. The previous owner had it modified to fit his turbo setup which obvious had a v-band on the exhaust housing and ran with an external wastegate. The original ddp flange was cut off and the dump tube was routed and flanged...

^ Fairly certain that "chemtool, seamfoam and alcohol" would eat right through "sugar" deposits. Very strange that it took water to desolve whatever that stuff is.

I've had great luck running and RPS Max PP on a Aisin disk. Pedal is little heavy, but engagement is smooth as butter and grips nice.

I can't help but think that the design of the factory drain is the culprit. If you look at where the drain feeds into the block, the oil will hit a wall before it drains down a hole in the bottom. I assume that this wall works as some kind of baffle, but if you have a lot of oil volume...