Actually all Motul 8100 series oils are ester based (like Red Line) - you can run that oil 8-10K easy. Ester reacts differently to heat than PAO - you have no need to worry about the color. It will darken over time.
Very well said SC - Considering Exxon posted record profits last year, it's no wonder they don't want us to all know they increased the margin on the Mobil 1 line.
Pennzoil (owned by Shell) makes none of those kind of BS dancing around the truth Exxon does. They flat out tell you they use a...
LOL @ Ian :biglaugh:
Castrol European Formula 0W-30 - aka "German Castrol"
If you want to use a middle of the road oil that's not even a true Grp IV or Grp V synthetic, go right ahead. Exxon Mobil has purposefully hidden (and continues to do so) that they switched to a hydrocracked...
Ok, do this: clean the engine with a pressure washer - avoid getting water on top of the engine and avoid any electronics. You can get plastic bags (new ones) and put them around any electronic modules. Get as much of the old oil/gunk off the engine you can. Buy some UV dye (for oil) and a UV...
Pennzoil Platinum, is a superb oil as is Pennzoil Ultra (kinda expensive tho)...even the conventional grades are very good, at least on par with Valvoline. Most of the Castrol oils are also good...Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (German Castrol) is the stand out in the Castrol line for the $$$...
As much as I dislike Mobil 1, that's not what did it. Suggest you send an oil sample to Blackstone for analysis
^^^ This is the likely culprit. You uncover the oil pick-up due to rapid accel/decel or lateral G in a turn and it only takes a couple seconds to trash the bearings. Were you...
87supraguy - this is a really simple integrity issue (or lack thereof). It's easy to rationalize/justify your behavior to your own benefit, but think of it like this: Would you want someone to do this to you as a business owner? Integrity is doing the right thing even when no one looking or if...
Thanks! That SBS is a very menacing weapon. I didn't go that route because I didn't want to deal with the Class III issues right now. It is a possibility in the future though ;)
Take a look at this and tell me what you think ;)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4
If you are going to run a 10W-60, the bearing clearances need to be opened up a bit to handle an oil that thick. You will be pumping a fluid with very high viscosity...
High potassium and sodium typically indicate a coolant leak. In addition the UOA shows positive for antifreeze. i would try and find the source of the leak...meanwhile, you will have to change the oil more frequently to negate it's effect.
Acquired a Tromix S02 Saiga 12…16.5” barrel with a 1.7” muzzle brake (permanent) for legalities:
http://www.tromix.com/saiga.htm
Came with a limbsaver recoil pad, 1 factory 5 rnd, and 2 ten rnd magazines…a 20 and 30 rnd drum is available. Shot it at the gun club...
This is a much better choice...personally, I prefer the hooded sight:
http://yankeehillmachine.com/store/product413.html
Less expensive overall too ;)
The railed gas blocks are not that useful IMO. As far as brands go, I use whatever suits my needs and is of excellent quality.
MagPul makes...
If you use an A2 barrel on an M4 upper, the lips of the barrel extension protrude over the ramps machined into the upper where the barrel/upper mate - that is not good. The bullet tip can catch and cause a misfeed. It's easy to match an M4 upper to an M4 barrel (current Mil std) at no extra...
That's what I'm talking about - iron sights (or back-up sights) - there's several different configurations you can choose based on the upper. An A2 upper (carry handle type) has the rear sights built in, you just use the std A2 sight on the front. An M4 upper is a flat top - it requires some...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.