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You do realize that Summit hose end is for stainless hose, not push-lock.

The one you linked to is a swivel end - that is what you want.

Not enough info as to what line you are referring to. Post a pic and you might get an accurate answer.

It's borderline - this is the only reason it's still here: If pricing, offers, "PM sent" or any other attribute of a for sale thread occurs, the thread gets deleted as soon as I see it. Opinions have been presented and I stated mine. I simply took the opportunity to state why we have a rule...

If a seller accepts an offer, that is totally up to them - if the seller counter offers and the buyer accepts, same thing. It's the "your never going to sell it for that much" or "it's not worth that much" crap we see in the classified section that is solely aimed at getting the seller to lower...

The parts are worth what the market is will to pay based on the need of the buyer. Considering the cheap ass nature of the Mk III community, you will get low balled and/or told the parts are not worth very much - accepting such offers is up to you. I would look at retail, eBay, and what our...

As compared to the usual stainless hose & AN fittings, yes it would be less expensive. I would use the AN push-lock fittings to make it easier to remove hoses in the future so you can work on the motor...the added expense is worth it. As mentioned earlier, Summit carries a line of push-lock AN...

You will be hating it if you ever have to remove the hose ;) There is no static problem - you can get corrosion between different metals - steel and aluminum primarily. In a system pumping oil though, it should not be an issue.

I think you mean JDub's thread ;) Push lock hose is far different than barb fittings Kenny was talking about.

I did read what was said and my opinion has not changed. First - you never mentioned anything about proper bolt strength. A bolt is not a bolt, especially where the drive train is concerned. Second - Temporary or not, using a low grade hardware bolt is asking for disaster. Third - You...

Been using Mocal's here - 180 is what you want.

This is a lot more important than you think. Lower temps = higher viscosity oil...think about pumping honey. That will reduce oil flow to the bearings. Is it going to make your motor die on the spot? No. Is it going to properly lube your bearings? No. T3d - think about it...it's not...

Suggest you read/heed this - not the usual bolt you find at any hardware store. Can hardly believe it was even suggested - especially in the Tech Section. :3d_frown:

Did you clear your stored codes and recheck? Did you clean out the port/channel that is inside the plenum? (it leads form the fitting flange to just under the TB)

Bounty - Not disputing what you said...just making it clear that the turbo is not the only part of the system that has an affect on flow. What matters is the the cubic feet of air delivered to the cylinders and how fast. A system with 3" piping and a unrestricted IC will deliver more air at a...

It's the volume of air past the AFM that causes FC - higher flow from any mod will lower the psi that you see FC occur. Besides environmental differences (OAT, etc), this is the reason you will see some cars hit it earlier vs later...even stock. A factory IC that just so happens to flow better...

It's not just the turbo that affects flow ;)

Patience weedhopper ;)

I think you should use it as is ;)