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Actually, you are the one that "established" the idea not to switch...that logic is not 100% accurate and switching to a syn oil on a motor with 100K miles is far from "stupid". I have changed several of my cars (all with well over 100K) from conventional oil to synthetic (GC 0W-30) with zero...

My Cressida does.

Maybe because the shops are gouging people? It's interesting that Dex II is even available in the UK - very rare bird here in the USA.

The oil system can handle that pressure easily. I would use Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (aka German Castrol) in that motor - you can get it at AutoZone or PepBoys...more info in the Lube section. Might want to read the Motor Oil 101 link in my sig. Yes, you should see a slight drop in...

QFT. What kind of radiator? What coolant are you running and in what ratio to water? You might be getting enough flow through the jiggle valve hole...did you enlarge it? What brand of T-stat? Or, your T-stat could easily be just cracking open allowing flow to the rad - a big radiator will do...

Kai - Maybe you misunderstood...Dex III will work just fine. The Castrol Import I mentioned above that I use is a Dex III. If it's significantly cheaper, that's what I would use if I were you.

The A340E was designed for Dex II - unless you're puting out HP in the 350+ range, it will do just fine. The big advantage of the later version Dex ATF is in longevity...even more so for the synthetics (like Toyota T-IV). There's two things you can do to increase auto tranny life by defeating...

I see you are living up to your screen name - I said, nor implied, no such thing. Might want to re-read the sticky with an emphasis on comprehension...I honestly can't see how I could make it more clear. 1000-1500 miles is plenty.

And those that chose to think it's wrong can remain ignorant (it is a choice).

Non technical subject - thread moved.

As stated - not a good idea. Might want to read the Motor Oil 101 link in my sig. That can easily be the problem like I said earlier. The cooler relief should not actuate on a stock system until ~40 psi. If the cooler is getting warm right away (at idle), the relief valve is stuck open...

You can view the page at http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?142-MKIII-Engine-Fasteners

Check with a mechanical gauge to eliminate your stock gauge's resolution as a factor. Check at idle and 3000 RPM per the TSRM. Compare against the stock gauge readings. Is that Pennzoil Platinum?

Is that a good witch, or a bad witch? As stated - depends on gauge accuracy. A direct mechanical gauge hooked up at the stock location will tell the tale. You know, the TSRM is a wonderful thing - Might want to start using it...

You're not getting it - how many guys that actually know what they are talking about have to tell you that before it penetrates your thick skull? I'm going to make this easy - if you post in the tech section, it had better be a question. Post here again giving any more "advice" based on your...

That would assume our boy from TX actually can comprehend what he reads ;)

Suggest you put down the scanner and follow the TSRM for checking codes - the after market scanners to not always work on the 7M. Toyota made a scanner for the engine, but they are rare. Using a scanner looks like a newb to me ;) Might want to drop the attitude if you want any help from the...

You really should get your facts straight before you post in the Tech Section - the OP would do well to completely disregard this post. Do not post in the Tech Section again unless you are 100% sure about what you are saying.

I really, really wish the term "Limp Mode" would go the way of the dinosaur. The correct term is Fail-safe mode (as Ben said) and it can occur as a result of 11 different sensor malfunctions - each with a different TCCS response to the problem that generally involves setting a fixed value for...