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Yeah 1-2 seems to be the problem areas. 1st gear thrust washer and the 1-2 shift fork. The bolt that mounts 1-2 shift fork had almost backed itself all the way out on my r154 along with a broken thrust washer. Never did use a puller with long bolts for anything. Knocked the output shaft rear...

Swapped in the new steering rack today. Old one was so fucked that when I squeezed on one accordian rubber it hissed out the other. Seals are so far gone im suprised it even held fluid. Bolted the trans and starter to the motor and is 100% ready to drop in. Hopefully get it bolted in tomorrow...

I was thinking about doing the cnc shift fork with the chromoly bearing retainer but its was an extra $400 give or take. For the amount I abuse the tranny its should hold out pretty well the way it is hopefuly haha

yeah im keeping the stock body but ill do some sort of front lip the same time as the whale tail. I got all the trans parts from drift motion. The bearings, seals and syncos came as a kit and I got the thrust washer separate. Totaled out around $500 with shipping.

thanks man. Im kinda leaning towards going with a whale tail from shine auto

Made a lot of progress this week. Completely rebuilt the R154 with bearings, syncros, shifter bushings and marlin crawler thrust washer. One of the shift fork bolts back itself out of somehow so I red lock tighted everything. Repaired a lot of the engine harness and wired in maft-pro...

Im sure its possible to get away without the actual tools, just a lot of care would have to be involved.

sweet mother of god.. you guys across the pond do some crazy things.. Keep up the good work!! :D

Im lazy sometimes and in bumper to bumper traffic I do not opt to make myself look like a revvy ricer. By saying this, Im only bringing up the point of having a clutch that drives like stock. I know I can do all these things to make it not chatter but what If I dont want too?? Then I buy a...

This was all the info I could find on the CEL fixes for when maft-pro is installed. Its only diagrams and I dont really understand what they mean so if someone could explain how to solder in the resistors that would be great!! and I totally dont understand what this is or what its for lol

The southbend clutch sounds a lot nicer for a DD car. Im using an action 6 puck with upgraded plate and the chatter it makes down shifting to second gear engages the abs. I can deal with it and not down shift to second and brake more but it would be nice to not have too.

My guess around 3k you will be at 5 psi. I spool around 5-7 psi at 2600 rpm on a single 60 trim Ct26. These turbos spool pretty darn quick.

Very nice job on the porting work! I did a similar job cutting back the valve shrouding in the c chamber along with port and polish. I wish saw this post earlier today so I could have cut back the quench pads like that. Just bolted and torqued the head back on a couple hours ago lol.

Made progress today and ripped into the motor. Everything looks minty fresh in there still which is nice. Pulled all the old exhaust studs from the head then drilled, tapped and installed helicoils for the new studs. Cleaned all the surfaces and bolted the head back on with thicker MHG. Need to...

You may end up having to pull the motor since in most cases when you get rod knock it wrecks the crank and/or rod. If there is any scoring on the crank or the bearing shells dont fit tight in the rods, the motor needs to come out for machining.. :(

Im pretty sure you can buy these adaptors that have an external gate flange. I wouldnt run a Holset on its internal gate since they are shitty. Like to spike and boost creep lots..

A heavy oil in a 7M will just float the rings and burn more oil. Stick with 5w30.

Sweet build, keep up the good work!

knock knock, whos there..??

Do those adaptors for the ct26 mani still give you enough clearance between the turbo and intercooler piping if you not ffim ??