The factory replacement is still Nippondenso at $500 or so, but manufacturing is in China. So I won't be buying any myself. I don't care about the China part, adjust the price after the labor cost was nearly eliminated.
I have no idea on the quality of some after market replacements, but the...
I don't see why the engine lugging with a load from the alternator means the alternator is not working. I would also look for an upgraded unit if you have a bad bearing. Or take the alternator off and have a machine shop press in for a fee.
Engine timing, is mechanical. Pick up is electronic. The mechanical part is what moved. Either the pick up moved, the belt has stretched, or the tensioner is not tight. It doesn't jump for any other reason.
So it wasn't jumping between 5-15? If it is jumping around then TE1 and E1 are not...
Entropy. It is unavoidable. The timing belt can stretch over time. The bolt holding the cps can also be loose allowing it to move.
Yes, it was.
Sure. Is that ECT sensor new? How was the wiring repair done?
That is normal. Cold needs to be richer. That is why there is a thermistor in the...
Even though this was asked back in July, I will put in a few points. It isn't in the repair manual because in general, it isn't needed. 26 years ago if owners did a drain and fill at the recommended intervals, the trans would be in much better condition. The cooler is integral to the radiator...
If the plug wire is not in its holder, it can rub on the throttle actuator pieces. The hard part with this if you don't have it an obvious problem is then getting a scope on the ignition and field current of the injector. Hard because most people don't own one. It doesn't take much to create a...
I think you should use the Fel-Pro headgasket which has a steel core with a composite face specifically for sealing under bad conditions. But don't just throw it in. Have it machined as already stated.
Profec B spec 2, and I am not sure if it is available new anymore. It is simple and doesn't cost much money. The slightly different part is the Trust terminology. Like "set gain" is when the waste gate opens, and "set" is duty cycle of the solenoid.
If I spent some time on google, I would have that water switch replaced one that comes on at 215 and off at 200. It might be in the TCCS thread where the temps are listed, but I know it is a safety switch, not a control. I would have it as a redundant control with the fan clutch. For now, I turn...
The high pressure switch is on the top side of the passenger wheel well. There are A/C lines on that side with the charge air piping hiding them. That is near the bottom of the canister.
I said that because you said a percolating noise. Fuel tanks can make noise like that with heating and vaporization when the system is not hooked up correctly. This is only a possibility. I can't see it from here.
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