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I don't think you can get a better piggyback for the price. I run 680 injectors and it has no problem with them. VERY easy to self tune. That being said if i had the money i would be standalone in a instant.

The ones i have seen have a big lsd fluid only sticker. Or just try to spin the axels in opposit directions if they do easy its not a lsd Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

You can tell easy without removing the diff cover. If u turn the yoke 4.3 times to make one complete turn on the axel it a 4.30 Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

i run a no pressure no stress system. Hehe Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

Fpd free since 2009 and loving every minute of it. I have a good one u can have if u pay for shipping Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

I have about 20k on my probes at 500whp and still have excellent compression numbers. I daily drove the car for about 15k and am always running 20psi through a 67mm. I accidently ran 27psi on 91 octane on a couple of long highway pulls and they didnt miss a beat! I did sand down the valve...

Duane is upgradedsupra and Milbrum is Milburm on the forum.

Map ecu Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

That makes sence. U sir need a smaller turbo!!!! Jk sorry for the derail Well a tps sure wont do it. I havent had a o2 sensor signal to the ecu for 4 years and have still not gotten a code for it. Does the cel flash on when this happens? Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

A tps will not do that. Sounds like u have a large boost leak Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

Mine has a small k&n on it and makes the same noise.lol i just got used to it. Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

Or cracked the bleeders to push the calipers in. Or had a dumb friend who stepped on the brake petal and shot the piston on the floor. It just sounds like air in the system and this thread is not beeming with info.lol i have had more then a couple of ppl come into the shop with the same...

Im pretty sure u just need to change ur fluid and do a good bleed. You probably let a ton of air into the system when putting on the rotors and pads. Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

[/COLOR]The two that i have torn down have booth shown signs of oil leaking out the back seal. It was wet with oil, although i figured it was wet becasue of the massive shaft play. I am pulling off the current turbo in a few days. I will tear it down and snap some high quality pics. I did have...

No i run it stock except i do not have it running into the intake just a catch can. Funny i almost mentioned that when i posted the pic.

This is a old pic..Turbo is much larger now and the crappy filter is gone. I am running Motul 20W50 Because i had 20 quarts given to me. after i wrote up this thread i noticed that i started having these issues kinda that same time that i started running heaver weight oil, althougth im not sure...

probably has nothing to do with your rotors or pads...You should try flushing out your brake fluid with some fresh stuff. You are probably boiling your brake fluid when you stop hard..as break fluid get old and contaminated it looses its ability to no boil. result, pedal gets spongy or simply...

Its pretty awesome. And if anyone tells you u cant hook up with it they dont have the right tires. I can hook in second if i ease into it with 500whp. It feels like it melts 400 pounds off the car from a 3.9 Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

I have read countless threads and talked to a lot of experienced people and still can not find a solution. Turbo #1 Brand new Garrett TO4E 60 trim COLD A/R .60 HOT A/R .69 I ran this turbo for about 15k. I made 489WHP and 510TQ at 21PSI i ran 20psi almost the entire 15k. It started smoking...

What is new is he took my torque wrench and didnt bring it back befor he went to germany. Jerk lol Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk