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Haha alright ill give it a shot today, thanks a ton guys for chiming in. Im sure ill be replying soon with a question.

Hey guys, Im looking to remove my front and rear seats in my 90T but cant seem to find out how anywhere. My motor is out so i cant control the seats... If anyone could explain or give me a link i would appreciate it a ton.

Motor is still complete(Except for the intercooler piping)

The kit sounds like junk to me... For one it doesn't seem like he knows what he is talking about, for two you got to think how is he making money? Hes selling this rebuild kit and its supposably all brand new? New toyota crank alone is about $700, new oil pump from toyota is pretty expensive...

No its not too common, actually i've never even heard of them cracking. Do you have the turbo stay bar still on? (The support bar that goes from the turbo to the block)

Yea i understand, i just thought i could just lap it and be fine with the block being crappy... And for the 1UZ swap i understand its not going to solve anything, but it will solve the problem with me not having a vehicle. What options do i have?

Yea i understand what your saying... I dont have any tools either to provide myself with information such as showing its completely true. Just really odd that the head side was a complete mirror finish and they left the block crappy. You think i could get them to pay for everything?

I dont even know what your talking about... Was stated in my first sentence. I dont know man. This is the one i got from rich. http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-411/SIP-Racing-MLS-head/Detail Yes, block was machined with timing cover on. Ahh, Well i got all the little...

Nope, no white smoke at idle... Turbo is fine, dont got but 10miles on it. New 57trim from Driftmotion.

Essential specs on motor: Head/Block Resurfaced, 1.6mm SIP MHG. Head looked really great mirror finish, block looked terrible and had pretty deep grooves in it. Called up shane from nolden motorsports and he said i could use his lapping tool. Lapped the block for hours and got those...

Yes, as aforementioned when the motor knocked the first time, i pulled it out, took off tranny and flywheel. Put it on the engine stand and turned it over. i didnt take off anything except that oil pan and pump. Timing belt was not touched and stayed tight the whole time. i didnt even have to...

Yes, as aforementioned when the motor knocked the first time, i pulled it out, took off tranny and flywheel. Put it on the engine stand and turned it over. i didnt take off anything except that oil pan and pump. Timing belt was not touched and stayed tight the whole time. i didnt even have to...

I think you misunderstood my post or something? i didnt say they were the same, nor did i say he could use either one. && Hes not asking how are they different as in factors/actions, hes asking how can you tell them apart from visual aspect.

Maybe? Idk how anything would of gotten broken && a spring of all things. Pressure relief spring as in the one on the filter housing? I\'m not sure if this would rule things the culprit of any such but while on the engine stand this last time i did have the engine turned upside down for a...

Post pictures? && The ECU\'s normally saying 7M-G or 7M-GT i believe.

I remember getting the one end really tight but the other end with the bronze flip over washer thing i never touched that so it has no reason to be loose. Yes and still shows no oil pressure, nonetheless after the oil pump picks up the oil, the oil filter is the first thing it goes through...

Background: Did a complete rebuild, dropped it in and pulled the EFI fuse, got really nice oil pressure so i started the car. It ran fine but then started knocking. Pulled the motor back out and i had put #6 rod cap on backwards :S Got everything back together, the bearing didnt have...

Ehh yea it was the damn 100A Fuse. I remember i shocked myself on the starter a while back so thats probably how. Thanks guys.

After my first rebuild i dropped the motor back in and started it up fine, had rod knock. Pulled the motor back out and it was just a rod cap on backwards. Measurments are all fine now and no excessive wear. Anyways i got ready to try and start it again and it wont even try to crank over...

If its just a busted valve then why are you wanting to buy a new engine?