I'm pretty sure they lock up with more torque. I just put a used diff into my Mk2 and both outputs turn together, but are very easy to stop one and turn the other. I did a quick wheel spin on a wet street in 1st gear and both tires were spinning, and the rear of the car drifted to one side, so...
Really? I heard that "Power Slot" rotors were also Brembos. I guess both companies do the same thing? But one charges $60 each and the other charges $120?
I have used CRC disc brake quiet with reasonable results, but the bright red color looks terrible on the pads! Does any other company make this stuff in black?? It dries to a rubbery consistency and simply dampens pad vibrations that cause squeal.
Anyone know where to buy this silicone vac hose with the super-thick walls? This pic is of a 3mm inner diameter, and 9mm O.D. hose. They grip hard, are very tough, don't kink on tight bends, and flexible enough to use on both small and medium sized fittings. My car came with a couple of these...
I'd like to know which flows better too. I've been running an Apex'i filter, and they are small enough to fit under my headlight for a cold-air-intake, but they are limited to a 3" intake size. Good to know that the AEM's come in 4", I'll have to look and see if I could fit one under there.
Anybody using "Power Stop" brand brake rotors? It looks like they only have drilled rotors for the Mk3, but I'm looking for good slotted rotors for my Mk4 Rear TT and front Cobra setup, which they do make. Any good or bad feedback? They are half the price of PowerSlot rotors, and seem to have...
When you had the problem, was it still hard to start when the outside temperatures were 70-80 degrees? I'm just wondering if the CSI injects fuel at each non-hot start, or just when it's quite cold outside. Because even in the middle of summer, if my engine is not warmed up, it's very hard to start.
My car has the same problems starting after sitting overnight, after it has cooled off. It can be in a warm garage, but still it takes 10 seconds of cranking and pumping the pedal to get it started. Once started, it's fine, and restarts very easily when warm.
I've read that the cold start...
#1 could have this variation, at least for large/custom builds: Estimate a hypothetical build cost, then double it, just to so you don't shit yourself when the final cost is realized. Then double this doubled cost, and you will have your approximate final cost!:aigo: Also, apply this same rule...
Yep, it's a silly long-ass multi-part route just for the BOV! I ran a dedicated vac line right to my BOV, since it is pretty important that it works 100% of the time. I also bypassed that annoying metal vac line distributor/pipe part, after getting tired of boost pressure bursting and...
My tails are JDM, so they look darker than USDM ones. We tinted them just enough to match the center lens. Maybe 2 very light coats of VHT nightshades. The painter prepped the tails with a very fine scotchbrite pad first, then clearcoated them last.
Some may not know, but all the window trim parts are available new from Toyota. Champion and a couple other locations have the cheapest prices. Each piece is around $50-$80.
You can also use an automotive polish on them. My painter buffed up an old piece so that it was glossy like new.
Upgrade the sway bars. I just did it this year, and it should have been my first mod I ever did to the car! But if you have very stiff springs already, the bodyroll should already be minor.
Mk2's are light, but 400+hp will likely break the weaker transmission and rear differential. Plus it fits smaller wheels of an odd-ball 4-bolt pattern.
I know the benefits of a front strut bar on a Mk3 are debatable, but since I have one, I wanted to ask about preloading it correctly, since it has that ability. Should the preload be "just snug", and pushing on the strut towers outwards? Or inwards? Same for a rear strut bar?
I also came...
If you want the needles to be red, or a different color, you can get a reverse-glow gauge face cover set from speedhut.com, which covers the existing gauges completely. I got a set of white/blue faces, and then used the brightest/widest angle red LED's in the stock locations to get red needles(I...
Yes, if the AVCR shows no drop in boost, it probably is not dropping, just a sensor issue. My AVCR matches what my boost gauge reads. Dyno it and have them log boost through a separate gauge or sensor.
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