Search results

That will work, but just be sure you push the clutch pedal to the floor when you start your car. Otherwise the computer/ECU won't know you are trying to start it.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=5 Cheers

I had the same problem, that was fixed with a separate relay to the starter solenoid, with 12ga power wire coming straight from the battery. This works because the old stock wiring very often can not supply enough current to the solenoid. It is important to leave the original starter circuit...

Hot looking exhaust for sure. My ears hurt just looking at the pics :) I imagine that we'll be seeing your car up an running at the meets this year Jeremy?

Hell yeah! +1!

No. It's evolved to the point of usefulness :) It screws up occasionally, but it's easy to correct with the keyboard. It has a function where you can improve the accuracy and train it for your own voice and vocabulary, but I haven't even tried that yet.

I've been playing with and trying out this new software. With a good quality mic and sound card, it's actually pretty darn accurate. In fact this entire post was created by simply speaking into my microphone. Quite the novelty. Enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3DhnpLIKCQ

I see, thanks for the pics. If only that was a "push" to pull open design it might work as a hood latch.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85016

No, the Jr. Lipp turbos are the same size as stock. You just need oil and water lines and their wastgate actuator. I'd go with this turbo over the SP one personally.

I'm building an inexpensive sequential single turbo system with the SP Quick Spool Valve (you can search here for info). Coupled with one of the new DBB billet turbos or modified GT series turbos with extended tip billet compressor, should really expand the powerband in both directions. Faster...

I couldn't find that part number. Is it suitable for my application, or better than the cable latch idea?

You got it. Screw it up and the whole hood would need a repaint, because it is a candy which cannot be repaired/touched up. Then then painter would have a tough time matching it, since it was originally painted at the same time as the rest of the body. A little too much or too little red candy...

Just wondering what camshaft and oversize valve combinations make the 7M an interference engine? If choosing parts, I'd rather keep it non-interference for safety.

Hey thanks for pointing me to that website, I think I found a viable solution! Yeehaw! McMaster cable latch:

My car never came with one. Would it make that much of a difference? The seat belts sound pretty trick, but my hood corner slowly lifts as the increasing airspeed pulls it up. Not sure if it would work to keep it locked down all the time..

I'm trying to think of a way to secure the front corners of my carbon fiber hood from underneath, instead of using hood pins. There is lots of room since I relocated the battery and the hood has a strong fiberglass frame that I can drill/bolt onto. I'm using the stock hood latch now, but I need...

They're having a $499 group buy price that ends today, I just ordered one. Every ounce of spool is worth it to me since my car is a 99% street car. The turbo I'm now considering is the Precision DBB billet exteneded tip 62mm :drool: This combo will have more power and spool faster than a GT35r.

Are there any low-cost ph or acidity test kits to buy to test the coolant?

Here is the valve dyno test result on an SP63 turbo(Tested by SP). Not bad! The red is with the valve open, and the blue is with the valve in operation