If only you really knew how imperfect my car is! :biglaugh: I could fill a page with my list. I've got you fooled with the illusion of perfection.
You've given me hope! Randy will be the one fixing this since he did the install :D
Is it common on a Mk3 that large amounts of water get inside the car through the window seals at a touchless car wash? My seals are new and the windows were well adjusted, but man I got soaked! My old Mk2 seals much better than this.
I'm saving up for a Motec or ViPec, but was thinking of running a progressive water/methanol kit for now. Would this give me a decent safety margin if I started spraying at 5psi? Also, would it help the mid-throttle risk to lower the hi-throttle point of my SAFC? It's set to 70% right now...
Sounds like bad luck turned into good. Throw an upgraded 57 trim CT on there, get it tuned and enjoy 350+ hp daily.
It's posts like these that made me install an extinguisher. I do however want to swap it out for a Halon extinguisher. They are pricey but leave no residue at all. I also...
What's the stock timing map look like? Could I get away with using race gas the first time I stomp on it on in 4th gear to see how soon it actually spools? If it is really crazy, I can just leave the valve open for safety until later. If I plumb it into the wastegate line it will begin to open...
I was thinking of installing a flex section there, but had second thoughts. This seals my decision not to. The flex section hangs lower than the downpipe, and I've scraped my downpipe dozens of times already. It's rather scraped up on the bottom, but slides over bumps and survives.
That's how they run them. Most Mk4's have the turbo at an angle that would not allow the valve to be flipped over to close the other port. In their thread on SF they said they did not notice a difference, so I assume they dyno tested both ports. Maybe the difference is negligible?
I'm over thinking it because I may have to modify the valve/manifold to work in a way it's designers did not intend: to block off the outer port. :aigo:
Maybe I could test it somehow? Maybe I could use my air compressor to pass a very small amount of air through one port, and see which port is...
Good point, it should keep the CHRA and compressor a bit cooler. Hopefully it is safe to be heating 1/2 of the exhaust housing 95% of the time. Any chance it might crack over time? I hit 1500+ degree EGT's on those long hot uphill highways heading to Nevada.
I had a close look at my GT turbine wheel today. The outside edges of the wheel are 100% perpendicular, but when looking a certain angles, can have the illusion that one edge is longer.
Now looking at the shape of the volutes in the pic below, it appears that if one port was closed, the gas...
SP designed these so that you pretty much have to close the port closest to the turbo center. They also said in their thread on SF that they tried it on both ports and noticed no real difference. Looking at the divided turbo cutaway pic below, which port looks ideal?
What can I do to make 100% sure there is no welding slag inside my new SSautochrome manifold? Like the mid-tubing joints inside that aren't visible? Run a stiff wire brush through them somehow?
If you're going to be running low boost, you might want to know that another SF member who also bought one told me that his valve starts to open at 7 psi and is 90% open at 12-13 psi and fully open at 15 psi. Sound Performance told me that the valve begins to move at 5 psi.... fully open by...
By the way, is there a minimum RPM that the stock ECU needs to see before it goes into WOT open loop mode? How soon would be too soon to hit 15psi on this turbo?
Next plan is a standalone, but for the next couple of month's I'll still be on the stock ECU with SAFC.
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