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Maybe you could just get a thick sandwich bag or some kind of rubber condom thing to keep the water off it? Just have it drain down and keep the bottom open for motor ventilation. Might save you the hassle of moving everything into the trunk Dave. K&N sells conical air filter covers designed to...

A worn turbo seal can also leak boost into the crankcase which pushes a lot of air out the valve covers into the intake pipe, which can carry oil.

Looks like 400+hp to me! Even your rubbermaid bin matches your paint perfectly ;)

I raced and dyno'd at 500+hp, but I keep it at 450 on the street. The previous owner ran 372hp for a while, and I drove it at that level for a year, just this year I pushed it to 450+. It's a low-mileage JDM engine. Yes, I have a lead foot :biglaugh:

Hope your garage is heated, it's cold out! How come your oil feed line wraps around the turbine like that? You don't want the rubber inside that line getting hot and degrading/clogging the line.

Order them from the states and have them shipped to point roberts here http://www.thelettercarrier.com/ That's how I do 90% of my car part shopping. Faster and cheaper.

This happened to my hood a couple of years ago because it was damaged and not reattached properly. It's important to make sure the hood is tucked behind the nose not catching air, have the undercover in place, and best to use hood pins.

Good work, that's a heck of a lot of prep. I used SEM vynil prep for the dash and it's holding up great. For plastic parts I had to use SEM plastic cleaner, then SEM plastic adhesion promoter. The SEM line of products worked great on my interior.

My turbo and mods are similar to yours. On the dyno we noticed knock starting to happen at 24psi of boost WITH water/meth using the biggest AEM nozzle. I did what IJ does, and backed the stock base timing down 2 degrees and I limit my boost to 21psi on pump/methanol. On your turbo, I would limit...

I hit 393rwhp with a 57trim CT26 at 20psi with very similar mods. You may have to run race gas or a meth kit to safely push 18-20 psi to get a solid 400.

tekdeus/Brad Maybe we should consolidate all of these into post #1 for easier browsing? Alphabetical?

Any idea on the wheel sizes of your turbo? Having a nice solid reliable 400rwhp is pretty sweet to have.

Happy BDay! Post up a picture of the big new beard you've grown! (Complete with grey hairs) :D

Do you find that the DR's mess up your cornering and make the car handle sloppy? Are they only good when preheated, or do they offer tons more grip than a street tire when cold?

A Mk3 is around 500lbs heavier than a Mk2. Driving a Mk3 is like driving a mk2 with 4 adults in it at all times!

Thanks guys!

Just do what I do Dave. Drive a cheap-ass but reliable Mk2 in the rain and snow, and the Mk3 on dry days. I just bolted my skinny snow tires to the Mk2 yesterday. :D

I did forget to mention I'm running ARP head and connecting rod bolts, with a GReddy metal head gasket. Those are a good minimum for a stock engine. Looking at your mods in your signature, it looks like you're ready to run around 400hp. Just take it to a dyno and get your piggyback tuned by...

Stock pistons are good for 400rwhp. I've been around that level for a couple of years on a stock JDM 7M.

Might want to turn the boost down in the snow :D Looking forward to taking a ride!