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Yup, had the same problems here, when I had the sensor mounted just before the throttle plate, on top of the engine. The problem with heat soak like this is that it calculates the air going in using a temperature that's too hot... and this leads to more air in the engine than your computer...

Driving in Vegas I was seeing 150-160 intake temps just cruising around, so this isn't bad. Admittedly, ambient temps were a whole lot higher! Is this on the street, or on a dyno? Looks like your setup is probably sucking in a whole lot of air that's been through the IC / Radiator.

I've done some deliberate testing. Using a new stock Toyota gasket, I was pushing 18psi on an upgraded CT, still with stock fuel and intercooler, and it held fine. When I went higher than that, I toasted the gasket... on every cylinder... and shattered 2 pistons, and melted one more, and...

Not much in the way of skill involved with a 2nd gear roll. Admittedly, not none, but we're not talking a run at the strip where it's all in the launch until you're way up above 600whp.

Poodles, I'm going to have to call BS on your BS call. ;) Admittedly, it was probably the auto SS, given his great launch performance, but that's a whopping 26hp difference. Stock SS dynos 365hp at the wheels, according to this page...

This is a case of DIY gone bad, if I had to guess. IMHO, most folks who wants to put car shaking power into their car need the help of a professional. All these problems are faced by professional stereo installers every day, and there is a range of techniques and products that have been...

I don't mind that at all. I wouldn't do it to my own car, but I'm a bit of a purist. Not fond of the wheels and wing, but that's pretty minor.

Here is the tire size calculator: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Stock tire size: 225/50/16 So, you're 7.5% slow. When your speedo reads 60, you're actually going 65. Have you changes anything else? Rear end gearing?

Dr. Tweak has the jumper harnesses as well. He's a member here and I am really quite impressed with his work.

Well, someone needs to point this out... Getting clipped at 30 mph is uncomfortable, and will end up doing some significant damage - especially in a Jetta. However, that's why we carry insurance. Getting clipped at 90 mph is often fatal. This is called risk management... Risk is calculated...

Or use the max function if your DVM supports it. I wouldn't expect the voltage to be very high, if these things could generate much in the way of power, we'd have built a generator out of them by now. As it is, I'm going to have to stick to the old buttered toast / pussycat arrays.

It does happen. Someone posted pics of a Supra that rear ended a transit bus a while back... the bus looks undamaged, and the Supra was peeled apart like a donkey eating dynamite.

Actually, I think it's more cramped in a RHD. It's near the firewall on the top of the transmission hump - in LHD cars you can see it from the passenger side footwell if you have a good light. Not sure if all the ducting is in reverse on the RHD cars...

Or the actuator that moves the slider is toast. Time to scrunch down into your footwell and move the heater control from hot to cold and back while peering at the actuator arm with a flashlight in your teeth...

If the battery has been disconnected for longer than ~1 minute, the ECU will take a few miles to relearn. The idle should smooth out, stalling will virtually vanish, and it will generally behave a fair bit better.

Personally, I'd say it depends. If you want to invest your time and money in a system that's been proven to work, buy the MAFT Pro. If you enjoy being the leading edge guy trying out new tech, we can always use another system that works for the Supra, so by all means be the initial tester, and...

As I understand it, it's not limited to a voltage, but instead looks for an amplitude in the specific frequency range for longer than a certain duration. It's absolutely not a simple thing that can be detected with a voltmeter. Which explains why there hasn't been a simple knock display unit...

Actually, he said there is no vacuum at the top of the valve, which is post VSV. So, first we need to work out whether it's a problem with the vacuum source, or whether it's electrical. Pull the vacuum line off the input on the VSV - that's under the valve mounting bracket unfortunately, but...

You can make the gauges work... I forget how off the top of my head, but it's pretty well documented in the NA-T threads as I recall.

Solids then... the Mk4 mounts only fit the later subframe.