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No, it changes your fuel pressure on startup by allowing the FPR ambient pressure instead of manifold pressure.

Ya, I heard the same story from Duane about the AEM sensors. I'll be switching as soon as I kill another one... which from the looks of it won't be very long.

Battery relocation really isn't all that tough...

Ya, it was listed at just under $10k. Pretty damn funny.

Movies like that got me laid so many times when I was still single. For instance, I took this one girl to watch Aliens, and she spent the entire time sitting in my lap looking at the back of the theatre. :D Damn I love being me.

Love all the reviews saying it's the best bang for your buck, too. :D

Me either. Run it, and when it starts to actually leak, worry about it then.

Be careful over there, and good luck.

LOL - no, I'd replaced them on a previous build, but with genuine Toyota parts, so they were only a few years old. Probably could, though, they are plain metal gaskets.

I used Felpro for all the bits and pieces. There were a few exceptions... I used an HKS head gasket, or course, and genuine Toyota for the exhaust manifold. Oh, and the EGR cooler. After I blew out the Felpro one. And I *think* I used a stock Toyota for the thermostat. The stock metal...

This should help with your torque settings: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=B&P=2 And the dipstick tube is going to be tight with a new O ring. Lube the O ring with fresh engine oil, get it lined up, put a block of wood over the end and give it a few solid whacks...

Even better, get one of these: http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Sawblades are easy to come by. Wreckers hate 'em, and many owners will give them away just to have the space.

I run stock size tires on sawblades - Michelin Mud & Snows, unstudded, during the winter. They are fantastic. I get better traction than AWD / 4WD cars running all seasons. Remember that AWD only helps you accelerate. Braking, you're just the same as every other poor bastard on the road.

Yes. But make sure to get the mating surfaces totally dry, and give it at least 24 hours to cure before you start it up.

Demonstar emblem from the original Grimjack comic book by John Ostrander.

I'd suggest buying a new one. All the old, used ones, are plastic and seem to be about ready to fail. I've put several used ones on my car and they have all failed within a few months. My nice shiny new one is sitting with Mark from Vancouver Toyota now, I'll have it soon.

50% of current LIST price. Audio equipment for the car has dropped from thousands per item to hundreds per item in the last 20 years. So all the guys my age trying to hawk their used Orion HCCA amps for double what a modern amp with the same capacity sells for are smoking the crack. I use...

I've seen this stuff used... and I've seen the engine teardown afterwards. To it's credit, it *did* pretty much seal the leak, and the car ran for another year. On the other hand, when it finally let go for good, we pulled the engine and tore it down, and it was AWFUL. This gunk was on...

To be honest, I don't think I'd worry about it. Your temps are still very reasonable. I run a very similar setup on my car - temp sensor in the same place, air filter in the same place. If I were going to change anything, it would be to build a box around the air filter, so it has to suck in...