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As long as they are not venoms you should be fine. 1000cc is pretty high how are you making 900+ hp? You will have a tricky time getting tunes for a good idle.

::dead horse:: → Right here! ←

The Rebuild parts for a 7M alone can buy you a pretty good crate sbc engine . Parts are more then plentiful & cheap for it also.

If you have the OEM harness you can reroute it so you dont have to chop it up and it works fine.

The challenge is to keep only oil alone where it belongs oem hg & toque specs ftl.

I dont think it does as much damage as interference design like valve piston contact, but having your intake valves float while exhaust gases are being pushed whats supposed to be the exhaust valves only is bad you start to cook injectors etc. If you go with large core 272 or larger it...

The OEM twins & Cam but other mods were done. I presently have a GT35R T4 DBB now with 750cc & aeromotive fuel pump with supporting mods twin disc etc. I hope to use cams & spring upgrade because I have a 1.06...

I dont mean for the after market nose, what I mean is the upper OEM nose panel is different at the 89 year change over.

Avoid pre-ignition pinging. Because if your piston is being pushed back down on upward movement it hammers the rod bearing into the crank. One thing on this note that helps, make sure you dont have any vacume leaks the 7M is completely metered air leaks hurt the engine and may run it lean...

Looks ok if done right but there is a difference between the two styles even the top nose piece is different. The bumper after 1989 is rounder and not as square shapped. If you want the Spec G which is the best front end out right now then I would do it.

Dont use a factory 4.1 just sell it make money off it it will break in no time at all. A factory 1JZ is pure fun with a 4.3 but will suck on the freeway A upgraded 1JZ would kind of suck with the 4.3 because you go through shifts fast You spend more time shifting then you do having traction...

My stock 1JZ redlined at 8000 I heard you can go up to 8300 on stock valve train. With BC group buy titanium springs & cams you can go up to 9000. The stock cams peter off at ~7300 so if you raise the redline it wont hurt but it wont do you any good.

This is a better one and should not require anything other then a tach signal. http://www.importpartspro.com/de80blrata0r.html

There is two thick black wires that connect into a plastic body it comes off the alternator those reconnect into the two white wires that come out of junction box #2 it was the old wingnut bolt on the 7m alternator.

Any of the bosch wideband systems is the best AEM & innovative LC-1 is the only way to go. As far as restrictions it depends if your keeping the cat & if you dont install your wideband correctly you will burn them up and they are quite expensive They need to be clocked the correct...

Can you help us out by telling us if you extended or hacked the harness? or is the harness OEM & just re-routed? your splices must be staggered and enviroment aircraft grade but/barrel splices with shrink sleeveing if you use the cheapo autozone splices that pull apart and not water sealed...

In the case of my supra the bracket busted, The 2JZ one pushes further into the center because the belt is longer If you buy the 2JZ one and must use the bracket like I had to you can trim/grind the bottom where the set screw hits it until its the same hight and it will work.

The speedo is off roughly by 10% if you use a 4.10 R154 speedo gear drive for a 4.3 diff So if you increase the diameter by 10% or get as close to it as possible using the jdm 4.1 r154 drive you should be really close.

The odometer wont work but you could always cruze the car 100mph the higher the better like dyno or what ever then mark the cluster, basicaly reprint a face plate so the needle matches, pick the gear set that maxamizes your speed and area of the guage face scan the original cluster so you get...

There is 2 china maniflods SS auto is the crappy one with the bad welds that fall apart. http://manifold.cc/english/default.aspx ZHOUSHAN RACING makes a really good quality one that people have the fewest problems with There manifold is around ~$100-$120 & there downpipe is around $60...