1jz wiring problem!!

[k20maniac]

well i just recently finished putting my 1jz in the car and i realized i had a problem in the wiring when i heard a hissing sound coming from my starter, it was a short in the wiring sparking at the starter, the car turns on perfectly fine, so i am kinda wierded out.

ok the weird part is, i took the negative wire off the motor just to see what would happen, and injector #1 start running and the beeping sound from my ignition turns on, as if the ignition were on(AND IT PROBABLY IS) then i touch the negative back onto the motor, a small spark comes up and it turns off, then i realized that the main relay clicked every time that i did that.. i am so confused!!!

could it be that i wired the c1 connector wrong to the fusebox?
i followed the instructions in how to wire a soarer 1jz into an ma70 thread and eveything else pretty much seems to be fine...

someone please share their knowledge im about to start pullinng my hair out!!!!!

 

[ma70mkiii]

if its not hooked up check the big black wires from the fuse box to the alt. before i hooked mine up it grounded out on the throttle body and threw sparks.

 

[k20maniac]

i already connected the positive wires to the alternator, sould i take them off and see what happens?

 

[ma70mkiii]

trace the ground wire to the motor and make sure that it is not grounding out anywhere. if it is sparking when u put that wire on then i would trace it and make sure there isnt any niches in it or anything like that.

 

[k20maniac]

none at all i mean the ground wire is really short..

 

[k20maniac]

update!!

ok so i thought its shorting at the starter for a reason so, i took off the positive from the starter and no longer is the ignition on when the car is off... which means whatever power is being drained its coming from the starter.... so now im stuck, my starter is making my car short out.. and its feeding a positive charge to the rest of the car... what do i do?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Can you help us out by telling us if you extended or hacked the harness?
or is the harness OEM & just re-routed?

your splices must be staggered and enviroment aircraft grade but/barrel splices with shrink sleeveing if you use the cheapo autozone splices that pull apart and not water sealed then they tend to pull apart and short when wet,

If soldering the wires the shrink sleeving you must be sure not to get cold solder joints and solder them as thin and use as little solder as possible you must solder them together then tug a couple pound force on them to make sure they dont seperate.
Also use as much flux as possible and keep the heat on it as short as possible but to make sure the iron applys with in 15° of the melting point for heavier gauge wires & higher current flow use wire with a little higher and more silver, before you shrink the sleeving clean off the resin to make sure there is not corrosive material left.

Also you must do shielded jumper splices for all shielded wiring and the ground daisy chain of the shielding must be like OEM because if you ground the shielding on both sides it makes it almost un-effective and creates alot of capacitive bleed off of signals and A/C in the center wire.

If your wiring is bad it might be easier to just get a new harness & re-route it. with out hacking it.

Your engine must have a good ground & it haves more then 1 ground it haves the braided strap & then it haves a ground thats on the plenum but also goes into the body connectors to ground inside the dash area.

Do not weld on any part of your exhaust or crank your ignition & coil on your car with a poor or disconnnected ground strap on your engine because if you weld or the cranking amperage & voltage of your coils will travel back into the ECU of your car and it could damage or blow up the ECU

 

[k20maniac]

my dad is an electronic engineer and he did all the soldering on the harness... the harness was soldered and heat shrunk..

ok it was getting to the point where the consumption was so great that it wouldnt let the battery charge past 12 volts when jumping the car... so i was looking and remembered that there are onl two other wires that could possibly do that, there are two large black wires that are in the harness that go to the intake manifold, i thought they were both ground wires... i took one off and the car cranked without hesitation it just wouldnt start, then i took that one off anf hooked the other one up, car cranked first try...

now the question that i have is are both of these ground wires? or is one a positive?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

There is two thick black wires that connect into a plastic body it comes off the alternator those reconnect into the two white wires that come out of junction box #2 it was the old wingnut bolt on the 7m alternator.