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This threads point has been heard and there really shouldn't be anymore .02's cause its just becoming clutter. Some people just feel the need to say something to make themselves feel important lol...I won't mention names.

Bottom line here... people who take the time to bed their new pads/rotors are getting the most out of their brakes. Many people may not notice a difference or give a flying fuck when driving a car that has had pads/rotors properly bedded. It's exactly the same when people ask "Do I really...

MK3BRENT asked this question but it never was answered and I'm now in the same situation. Just installed new powerslot cyros and akebono proact pads in the front. It just started to rain and I have to drive to work in the morning. Anybody know of or had any bad experience bedding in...

I commute at like 90-95 miles an hour weaving though traffic on Route 440 in Raleigh...no places for 5-0's in the median plus it wakes me up in the morning.:biglaugh:

After reading the reviews I've gotta go with the Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R. If a autocross 911 driver says they rock, they must rock.

I couldn't find a tire rating thread so I thought I'd post it here. Looking at - Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport - 225/50ZR16 Spiriting driving/commuting. Thanks guys.

I'd definitely come...living in Apex.

Yeh, I messed with it a bit more and it Idles right where it should when its warmed up(650rpms). It just sounds very rich and the exhaust is popping like crazy. Sounds like a cigarette boat...

I take it the intake manifold bolts are the same size or no....noticed I had one missing the other day. Grade 8-10...

So trying to adjust my tps so that my car will idle correctly has been nothing short of a nail through the foot. For whatever reason I just cannot get the second reading per TSRM (the reading you take at .9mm) to hit infinity, it always returns a value close to what the .5mm reading is. I've...

If you care about stopping and getting everything out of the money you just spent on new rotors/pads read this... www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm This is a simple to follow and accurate bed in How-To for anybody skeptical.

bump pleaseeeeeee answer

I'm reading a .05kohms on my idl-e2 with .5mm and .09kohms with .9mm. The continuity reads the same for .5mm and .9mm at 81. Need some help here cause some of this stuff seems totally wrong.

What should I be getting for that and will this affect running rich or lean on idle. I'm seeing if TPS is a bit off since I'm quite sure i have no boost leaks

What are optimal readings to get? Is there an optimal reading(s). My first reading you take that has to read between .5 and 1.2kOHMs i was reading about a .6. Just trying to learn more about what these readings mean and how they affect idle.

Thanks for really explaining that. I still have tonnes to learn so every good answer like this helps a lot. It is common sense I just didn't have the mind set to think of it.

Anybody else wanna chime in...I would think there has to be at least one more explanation for this.

Even if i didn't replaced the o-rings, how would that make it run rich. Wouldn't it cause the complete opposite. I'll check my IC lines this weekend. Still don't understand how fixing the air leaks I talked about would cause the problem to worsen... Thanks man.

I don't think he has figured out what a money pit he has gotten himself into yet...but if ya got it, spend it lol. :biglaugh: If you want a quiet deep rumble go with BIC RDDP and 3.5 BIC Thunder w/ resonator. WOT sounds beastly but you can still drive past 5.0s no problem.

So I really don't understand this. I have no check engine lights, the car starts up and idles around 1k. So far(about 10 starts) it hasn't idled like crap and wanted to shutoff. The 4 hoses: stock bov hoses(2) and the other two hoses that come off the accordion pipe(cooleze metal, rubber...