Get a chinaman stainless DP then pay DM to do a custom stainless 3" all the way through, you live close enough to him.
Because all the aftermarket exhaust is mild steel or haves restrictions at the bends reduced sizes at those points.
Wrap the exhaust up with a titanium 3" muffler single tip...
You can use the OEM JZA70 Fuse box #2
Because it is usually in newer condition & better shape.
The internal wire traces inside the JZA70 fuse box #2 is the same as US.
Use the mini harness in the JZA70 that goes between the fuse box #2 2F connector and EA2 connector is on the other end...
Go with the denso for no more then 500-600hp
Because if you buy the walbro you dont know if it is the real walbro or a cheap knock off.
The denso is more reliable & quiter.
If you plan higher performance than above go with a really good aftermarket single pump like aeromotive or any that...
One other thing I almost forgot
Dont tap your turbo coolant line at all!
Just pull out the two 3/8" nipples out of the water neck with vice grips try to avoid twisting to much to bore it out.
Then get aluminum -6 AN hardline or 3/8"OD aluminum hard line then add the couplers tothe turbo...
The water pump will not pump properly unless you have the belt on tight I think thats most likely your issue I deleted the AC then went with a belt that landed the tensioner in the middle mark you almost want it at max at new so when it settels out and streches a little there is no slack in it...
Refer to this artical.
http://www.importtuner.com/features/impp_0902_1989_toyota_supra_community_spirit/index.html
I can not stress this anymore.
However when it seems right to a tunner and builder go with the flow I am not tring to get all F & F and crap but you get my point.
2JZ
Reliability, more readily available new parts.
I see more GS,SC300s in the junk yard now then supras or cressidas combined.
Also it is more relaible because when pushing a 7M to nearly 200% of its power you have to poor money into it.
A JZs leap to 400 is a bolton walk in the...
Just unplug the JZA70 EA2 from the fuse box and splice the two alternator wires and call it a day.
You do not need to splice C1 to EA2 just take the whole jumper harness off the clip.
The rear mounts are different even between the two manuals in some cases the auto for sure is different.
There is different letters stamped like "A" "B" "C"on the tranny mount.
As far as the clutch w58/R154 the pedal reservoir hardlines are the same but there is a difference i think from...
Did you redo the harness 100% and with new amp connectors or splice/extend/repin new wires it looks clean?
Its easy to guess where to knock the firewall back its right behind the rear twin, The only reason the 1JZ doesnt need it knocked in is because its more in the tunnel being mounted 1½"...
JZ FTW
Run it a day or two at the most on rod knock pushing redline & you will put a piston through the block #5,#6 is the 7Ms favorite I have lost ~3 engines to rod knock My brother 2 Mason 1. All cars were maintained oil changes levels good synthetic 10-30 castrol babied the engines just...
I wouldnt push the 7M series rev limit I used to then after me & my brother, couple other friends put pistons through the side of blocks we switched to JZ series, It either cant take the stroked out force, or the oil system haves some inadequacies.
I would look to gain HP or fun from other...
There is a left & right side fuse.
If the left side blows then the +12vdc will put that light in series feeding back through other circuits thats why one is bright the other is dim try checking both fuses left & right.
If they did not hack up the ECU portion of the harness wires you could just use a 7M EFI harness to splice into JZ harness but if they tried to extend the whole harness, good luck.
High end OS Giken 2425lbs about 25% ~800 less then rps this is from specs on I believe the upgraded twin package with the billet plate the steel I remember was even less but their plates actually hold up to advertised specs unlike the cheap remanufactored OEM clutches.
Their plate comes with...
A little more searching will yield lots on that question and the stickys
Your looking for ricks site since it was took down when supraforums was bashing him a while back ago he used to help with swaps and document it.
Here is the web archive to the original page...
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