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intercooler isn't going to gain you much on a stock turbo. I would keep the money, and spend it on a Lexus AFM and 550s.

REAL HKS 50mm for me Runs ROCK SOLID. No creep or oscillation at all. For all of you guys worried about wastegates sticking, have you ever heard of boost cut? I run my GT40 at 1.25bar, and have the boost cut set at 1.3 :)

Is brake cleaner ok to use on the surfaces like that?

There should never be any fluid in the area between the master cylinder and the brake booster. The gasket here is only necessary to keep dust and debris from getting inside. Silicone will work fine. If you're leaking fluid between these two, that's "normal", as there's a drain punched into...

I cheated. I just bought the whole TT-R http://members.shaw.ca/annoyingrob/Supra%20Pics/Seat%20Damage/Seat%20Hires%203.jpg If you wanted to install some from a honda, you're going to have to do something about the sliders, and the seat belt, as the seat belt holster is attached to the...

http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=3473 Wideband, and electronic ears in one. I run the previous model.

Intake air temperature, and coolant temperature. If you're throwing a knock code though, that's your problem right there. The ECU will pull timing because of it, losing you lots of power.

What's happening is the end of the transmission shaft IS NOT being properly supported. It has a lot of weight from the clutch hanging off of it. This puts axial loads on the internal transmission components that they're not designed for. Yes it can cause shifting problems as the input shaft...

timing could be being pulled back. Are there any codes present? Is the CEL coming on? Are the knock sensors properly wired? Is the IAT and CLT sensor properly working? Are the cam lobes flattened out? What RPM does it spool by?

Are you using the crossmember from a front clip? keep in mind steering rack mounts are backwards.

main bolts, rod bolts, and flywheel bolts are the same as 2JZ as well.

CHECK SOLDER JOINTS TOO! look very closely for cracked solder joints, especially on the connectors. It may be a good idea to just re-solder them regardless of what they look like. Alternatively, find someone with a known working 1JZ, and try your ECU in their car.

careful tapping into IGF or IGT. If the tach impedance is too low, it will pull the signal low, and teh car won't run. The correct place to tap into it is the ignitor itself. The ignitor normally sends the signal to the tach. The standard wire is black with red dots on it IIRC.

That's a good idea. does the EMS have an option to trigger the 2-step via the speed signal?

Dan, you deadening the doors at all? I'm just about to deaden my whole car :o

If you have the turbo, trace the flange onto a piece of plate steel, plasma cut it out (or band saw), drill bolt holes, and center hole. Finished. I've been kind of wondering what a 1JZ turbo would do on my lawn mower actually :)

No. The stock FPR will do what it's designed to do, regulate the fuel pressure. Just because you have a bigger pump on there, it's not suddenly going to stop working. With the 550s, you'll be running RICH though. You best set the SAFC to pull the appropriate amount of fuel everywhere, and you...

Possible causes: -Bad wiring between ECU and ignitor -Bad ignitor (although unlikely) -Bad wiring between ignitor and coil packs (check those connectors on the coil packs! Cracks, or no locking clips, you should replace them all) -Bad coil packs (although I doubt it) -Bad spark plugs -Sticky...

so THAT'S why you wanted a clutch switch... What I did, was just got a 2-step with a speed sensor. That way, it deactivates when I go over 10km/h. No clutch switch needed :)