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Hate to tell you this, but your security module is most likely fried. It's acting like your alarm has gone off, and has killed the ignition. the car will never start until you replace it, or remove it and do the workaround. It happened on my stepson's NA, because the battery was hooked up...

let's see, The stuff I got on ebay totaled 321.00 shipped. I payed 25.00 for the thermostat housing, and 1.80 for the new dowel pins. As for sanding the block, and head, it's a lot of work! First, you need a 4 ft long level. the wider the better. mine is only an inch wide, and you can get into...

I'll tell you what, I have been very happy with most of the stuff I got off ebay. As long as you check the seller ratings, you should be good. You can find almost anything you want or need, and the price is usually lower than anywhere else as well. I can't really say anything about the other...

If it was hanging, and you had no hose clamp on it, it could have pushed the piston out. It will look like it's still in there, because the boot holds it in place. Pop off the boot and check it.

If your cam position sensor is one tooth off, that could be your problem. Happened to me once.

I had to rewire my stepson's abortion, and I used audio coax to do it. Worked perfect! I definitely would not recommend using RG 58, or 6 cable.

This might be a bit obvious, but did you check the ecu fuse?

To weld thin metal use the thinnest wire available on the lowest setting, or you will burn right thru. I'm using flux core, and it is nearly impossible, as the wire is too thick and carries too much heat to the panel.

Are you SURE it's engine braking? It's remotely possible a dragging rear brake could cause these symptoms.

Ditto to the above. Air, or slave cyl. Bleed or replace. When you bleed it, after you push the pedal down, you have to lift it up every time until it's bled.

PM me all you want. Happy to help if I can.

Yeah, Except for the gasket, and the shimmed wastegate, and my 3 inch hardpipes, and 3 inch full exhaust.

OK photos part three! And P.S. sorry about the file size, I'll work on that for the next shots.

OK photos part 2!

Well people, I finally got some money together to start rebuilding my engine. Monetary restraints have got me doing it on the cheap. Got a set of pistons, wrist pins, rings, and bearings from a highly rated seller on ebay. Got a slightly used HKS 2.0 mm stopper, and a set of arp undercut studs...

If you do in fact cause the compression to lower a bit, this is OK, because it will actually make the engine a little more durable, and you can compensate for any lost power by increasing boost a little.

This is most likely corrosion on the piston. By design, brake fluid absorbs water and eventually the moisture corrodes either the piston, or under the square cut seal in the bore, either which will cause binding of the piston.

If all your lights are on, you may well have a short. A short could possibly be cutting power to the ecu, which would result in a no start condition.

DEFINITELY get the arps, The stock bolts will stretch if you reuse them, and getting new stock bolts costs around $40.00. It's well worth the expense!

Yes, that's true. Usually, when you go to that site, the part description is more elaborate. I'm sorry it didn't work for you in this instance, but it is a good resource for price, and availability. :aigo: