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I vote gas. Gas alone, no water. After cleaning, drain thoroughly, cap off one end with tape or something, put a small hole in the cap, and blow through with an air gun until there are no fumes. Gas will dry a lot faster, and more completely than water, or solvents.

You gotta go nice and slow, very little pressure, and not heat it up. I did it right after I posted, look at the pic. Worked PERFECT! Cleaned the holes to the very bottom.

Hey figgie, I just looked at your wiki link, and see that mine is a plug tap. I'm thinking a judicious use of grinding, and I could get my tap to approximate what you have.

Well, it's a bottoming tap that matches what I was taught about bottoming taps, and it's worked well in the past. I'm sure yours is better, but a lot of people don't have 65.00 to spend on a tap. I'll have to stick with mine I guess.

Also, I just checked the tsrm. You are correct about .0039. But, thats for the head only. Understandable, as being aluminum, it will flex quite a lot. I was refering to the block spec, which is indeed .002 as I stated, because the block does not flex as much.

This is not MHG specific, it goes for all types. It's better to have a good clean deck to seal, than a beat up damaged one.

Look at the attached pics. would you rather put your HG on example 1, or example 2? P.S. these were the easiest to get to pics, and I forgot to take pictures of the block until after I had removed most of the damage, so the block shots wouldn't be a good example.

I say yes, because of the inevitable damage from the old gasket. I've seen pitting over .004, and that would be enough to put it beyond spec. The surest way is to get it machined, and eliminate any potential for problems. P.S. I'm going to have to double check, but as I remember it, my 92 tsrm...

Get the parts from a salvage yard, and do it right. You may be able to get away with it in your area, but that's not gonna help keep you from getting rear ended.

yes!

Though the stock HG can handle more warpage than the metal ones, the maximum it can take is .002. anymore than that, replace, or refinish. It's definitely in your best interest to do the machine work. The different heat profiles of a cast iron block, and an aluminum head, demand the job be done...

Wow figgie, that's expensive. I got mine at a hdwe store, for about twelve bucks, and it's still going fine.

When you marked it, was the #1 piston at compression TDC?

That's what it looks like to me.

I believe it's near the ECU, behind the glovebox, though I've never actually looked for it.

There's a lot of opinions about headbolt torque for the MKIII, but me personally, I would not go over 75 ft lbs for the stock bolts. They are not sufficiently hardened. I would also use a moly lube on the threads, and on the bolt to washer seat to promote more accurate torque, and follow the...

One other option is to install the third brake light from a NA supra, one that has no wing. I think legally, you have to replace it anyway.

Basically, the only thing it will do is lower your compression a little bit. Lower is better than higher in a turbocharged engine. It will work just fine, and if you do notice a small performance dropoff, all you have to do is add a tad more boost to compensate. This can be done by shimming the...

Check behind the boot of the slave cylinder. It's a pretty tight fit, and will usually hold any fluid that leaks into it. A high pressure leak in the slave cylinder usually won't suck any air either, so it can be bled without showing any air bubbles. Something like this could cause the symptoms...

Forgiven! lol:aigo: