yea, there was a honda-tech thread showing them held together by glue.
However, I have a friend that was running an ebay turbo on his LS B18, and it was very fast... The turbo never smoked.
Keep in mind it was never run at over 14 Psi, afterall it is a stock honda motor.
He now started to...
even if he had one what good would it do? He still cannot turn down the boost. What he needs to do is up his fuel pressure and lower the Hz from his AFM with a SAFC or similar device.
This will keep him away from fuel cut, by reducing the amount of air the ECU "sees", while keeping him from...
oil cooler, oil psi sender unit, Cps, turbo feed/return, dip stick, oil filter, valve covers, HG (yea right), or PS system.
If it were front main, I doubt it would only be on the passenger side
If it were cam seals your timing belt would be drenched
I'm with MDC, I'd definately drop the fuel pressure a little, that way you won't have to pull as much fuel. Unfortunately you may have to re-tune your settings for idle and cruise.
Seriously! I thought I'd actually have traction for once, starting at 10 Psi, and it rivals the SP when it was pushing 20psi! My aspirations for traction were quickly shot down :(;)
Aaron, do you think the EGR flange on the back of the manifold will flow enough for the ISC to function. I was considering this location because it would be even more hidden than the front vac port.
the thing that gets me, he said his RPM's dropped to zero.. he didn't say he was clutching it... so there is something horribly wrong there if its the AFM, or the fuel supply.
So my question was did the RPM's drop to zero while you were in motion without clutching, that would que ignition...
I have a Garrett with a .81 A/r, and 57 trim wheel. I cannot believe the spoolup on it. It made my bolt on SP61GT look like a lag monster. I'm very impressed, considering I was expecting some lag going with a larger A/r.
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