Electric Fans

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blackout_89t

King of the roll
Apr 25, 2005
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Toronto
I need an electric fan.
The 10-blade clutch fan will not fit with my front mounted crank sensor.

What kind of CFM should I be looking for from an electric fan? I prefer a dual fan setup and one that isn't very loud. I have seen dual 12" fans that flow 1800cfm and I have seen dual 12" fans that flow 4000cfm. How much CFM is required for a 7M with a relatively stock cooling system?

Car won't be driven very much but it will be boosted alot when it is driven. Currently with a stock rad but will be upgraded soon-ish, maybe before the winter is done maybe not.

The fan does not nescarily have to be supra specific I have no problem making mounts. There are hundres listed on summitracing but I don't know enough about them to choose.

Help?
Thanks.
 
D

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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indiucky
i had the fans listed above w/ my pwr radiator. sitting in stop and go friday afternoon traffic in chicago in 92F weather the car never got over 190F.

one of the fan motors burnt up and i replaced it w/ the ultra performance zirgo dual 12's. often, cfm numbers are exaggerated. but these fans are a lot more powerful than the FAL fans. they are rated at 1650cfm each, so 3300cfm total. the FAL are rated at 2500cfm. the zirgo fans are no longer available, but just to give you an idea about flow rate of 3300cfm, the fans when they come on run maybe 15 seconds and they shut off.

if you are looking for a cheap effective solution, you can look into the contour fans. they flow good (never seen a real number on them), and can usually find for $100 or less. the only downside is they draw a lot of current. over twice the FAL, and nearly 3x as much as the zirgos i have. buddy has it on his car and it works well. it isnt as attractive looking as some, but it does the job and inexpensive.

all and all, id want atleast 2500cfm. the more the better. try to find something 20amps or less current draw. pay attention to the depth. often fans are pretty deep and wont allow a lot of clearance. if you buy single fans they are a lot more effective if you build a shroud to mount them (like the FAL design).

one last option, you may look at these fans

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12-I...001QQitemZ110197908734QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

they are supposed to be comparable to the zirgo, but i have no experience with them at all. might be worth a shot for the price.

hope this helps, and i didnt mean to write so much lol
 
suprakid24

suprakid24

Turbo'd
Jan 6, 2007
521
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Texas
www.cardomain.com
i had the dual 12" flex-a-lite fans, and for some reason when i had them on i couldn't use the a/c. after about 5 minutes the a/c would go out and my temp would start rising.. but with the a/c off, it was fine. idk why it was like that, but it wasn't cooling that little a/c canister thing at the front of the car good enough, because when we would pour water on it to cool it, the a/c would start working again.
 
ms07s

ms07s

TORGUE!
Sep 29, 2007
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suprakid24 said:
i had the dual 12" flex-a-lite fans, and for some reason when i had them on i couldn't use the a/c. after about 5 minutes the a/c would go out and my temp would start rising.. but with the a/c off, it was fine. idk why it was like that, but it wasn't cooling that little a/c canister thing at the front of the car good enough, because when we would pour water on it to cool it, the a/c would start working again.
Click to expand...
Are you refering to the dryer canister in front of the condensor? Sounds like it needs to be replaced.
 
WhtMa71

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
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Macon, GA
Yeap the dryer will get full of water eventually especially if any part of the AC system has been disconnected or if there was a leak.
 
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blackout_89t

King of the roll
Apr 25, 2005
488
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Toronto
Thanks for the replies!

The dual flex-a-lite look very nice.

1. How loud are those fans? I hate high pitched noise from fans (computer fans).

2. Does anybody have any data for the design life of the electronics? Approximately how many hours are they designed to run before potential electrical problems. The last thing I need is one or both of the fans to die while stuck in traffic.

3. Has anyone used a single 14-16" puller on one side of the rad AND 12-14" pusher on the front?

4. What about duals on the back and then a small single on the front for a "backup" wired to a switch just in case...Would that block to much air flow while not in use?
 
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dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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indiucky
1. loud is subjective. i didnt find them loud, barely heard them inside the car. they arent high pitched.

2. i had my FAL fans on for roughly 70k miles. the rubber seal on the shroud came apart, dropped down into the fans, and broke a blade. it then locked up and burnt the motor. if it werent for that, they would be still going. their control box, on the other hand, is crap imo. ive burnt out one myself within the first year. and all my friends that have had it burned up as well. everything from melting wires, melting fuses, to the box just quit working. i wouldnt suggest using it.

3. you can, but be aware a fan on the front during driving will impede airflow to the radiator.

4. just like you say (and i just said haha) it will block airflow. from the factory there is already an "oh crap" fan. i forget the temp when it will turn on, i think its around 220-230F range. it really isnt enough to cool the car, it is just a helper fan if the car is running hot. i did find (and so did buddy) that removing this fan, even tho it wasnt mounted directly to the radiator, the car ran a little cooler. if anything, you may consider just replacing this fan with a higher performance one. it would be better than nothing, but like i said it wont cool the car by itself.
 
ms07s

ms07s

TORGUE!
Sep 29, 2007
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1. Not loud but enough so that you can tell they are on and you want to know that anyway.
2.I have had mine for a year now and no probs so far. Like previously said the controal box is shit and died after like 3 months or so. Got mine on a switch now till I can rig up a good thermo control.
3. Nothing in front of the rad is better than any little fan = more flow. And having the belly pan also helps.
 
ms07s

ms07s

TORGUE!
Sep 29, 2007
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Memphis,Tn
suprawalt said:
how did u wire ur fal dual fan. when i had mine wired in it took power from the fuel pump and ran lean
Click to expand...
:aigo: Um not a good idea....

I ran it directly off the battery to a relay then to the fan. The relay is connected to my ignition switched source so when the car is on the fan is on. I have a switch on the wire to the relay so I can turn the fan off and on when it is needed till I find a thermo control that does not suck.
 
supraguy@aol

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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Atlanta
I have the FAL twins also, and my control box went to crap after a year as well. I now have a double relay(bosch style), each fan having it's own. In place of my BVSV, I have a temp switch that closes its circuit at 200 deg. and opens it at 185. That runs to the grounds of both relays, and I have beefy wires for fan + and -. I think my fans are kinda loud from outside the car, as they run for about 30 seconds after I shut down. People always ask me why my car is still on, and I have to tell them it's not.
 
ms07s

ms07s

TORGUE!
Sep 29, 2007
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supraguy@aol said:
In place of my BVSV, I have a temp switch that closes its circuit at 200 deg. and opens it at 185. That runs to the grounds of both relays, and I have beefy wires for fan + and -.
Click to expand...
Ooooo I like that idea! Sounds like a relatively easy setup as well. Where did you get the temp switch from? (different car or specialty part)
 
supraguy@aol

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,239
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Atlanta
dbsupra90 said:
i use a temp switch in place of the cold start injector. it is a direct swap.

you could drill and tap any of the unused ports on the tstat housing.

info here on mine- http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21320
Click to expand...

Isn't the cold start injector on the underside of the intake manifold?


I used this item from Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF-30110&N=700+1003+115&autoview=sku

It's 3/8 npt, but it screwed right into my Tstat housing, no leaks, no problems.
 
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