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on the note of downloading the TSRM in PDF... if you google the TSRM you can find it in several locations, and theres a site that already has it for download. and FWIW - i run no center cover and have not had an issue at all... i can actually change my spark plugs without removing anything...

coolant issues - new thermostat and radiator cap? do a flush though... shouldnt be BROWN.... and make sure you dont have any loose coolant pipes or leaks.

says its from SILV 08... but was uploaded 3 days ago? lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmkmCC5u4EQ

yes and no... they donate to ROTM and stuff, which is really cool. but if you buy a water pump from driftmotion.com it doesnt really benefit the site directly... its nice to see that your learning, and that your planning this out. hope all goes well with the car.

you can rebuild the turbo at your house, but dont count on it last long.... you dont have the tools or the equipment to assemble it and balance it like a true turbo shop could. not to mention they could do it in 1/3 the time... haha

bare minimum i would go with a MHG and some ARP head studs. then at least hone the block, deck it, and make sure its all cleaned and straight, with NO cracks anywhere. the head i would get decked so its 100% flat across it, then get a valve job to make sure everything will continue to...

i thought it was my tensioner. nope, it was my guide closest to my pulley that was wobbling around off... so uhh... +1 to the crank guide.

This one would be a whole lot easier to route and install. http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itembiggerspearcoreplica.php

http://www.suprasport.com/Beech-7m-Billet-Engine-Pulley-Set_p_432-1549.html just an idea how much there already available for... but why the underdrive of the waterpump? has this been ok'ed by a moderator for you to post up?

screw receipts... pull the valve covers off. i wouldnt believe him even if he had the receipts... yes it would be daily driveable, but you might need to get it tuned because of the cams, but for just driving around town not trying to race you should be fine. i have a 'built' engine and its...

worry about one part of the car at a time right now... haha but all of the MHG i know of come with a coating of viton on it, i know the HKS does, and im 99% sure the cometic does from the pictures i've seen of them, and you use NOTHING on them, just clean the mating surfaces with acetone...

suprarich is a titan dealer and will hook you up. there are plenty of vendors on here who will take care of you... zankoku or suprarich are both great guys. driftmotion is also topnotch.

if by vavles you mean the valve stem seals... then yes. but not the vavles directly. OEM trubo rebuild is 275, at least from the place i used. but do a leak down test to see if your valve seats, HG, or your rings are bad... because a leak down test will tell you if any of those are wrong...

talk to zankoku performance... there a vendor on here and they wont rape you on the price of a head gasket... they were gonna get me a cometic but i went with a hks mhg instead. and just FYI... titan MHG = rebadged cometics but the 2mm titan is almost 180...

are you saying you broke a cam cap bolt? if those those are REALLY tiny and dont require a lot of torque.. and ARP has nothing to do with cam camp bolts...

if your not going to machine the block, get a cometic. because the HKS probably wont seal. it has to have a 30RA (how rough the surface is) or less. the cometic is 50RA... did you do a compression or a leakdown test before you tore it apart to check the condition of the rings though? i would...

people shave the block and head and then slap on a 1.2mm and there fine... i went with a 3mm... and wish i had gone with a 2mm. and if your worried about the sealing surface, then get the cometic, as there MUCH more forgiving.

those two lines next to the intercooler pipe lead back to the oil filter housing... would have taken about 30seconds to trace them back. no reason for stainless steel lines unless you go with a full on oil cooler setup. just go down to the auto store and get some power steering hose to...

you made two threads for no reason... go read what i posted in your original thread.

wow... your one of the smart ones. your bottom end should be pretty good then. just drain the oil, fill with some generic supertech 5-30, run that for 5 or 10 miles, then change it out for the good stuff. that way if anything shows up in the oil after you do the BHG you wont be wasting 40-50 on...