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I find the water drops to the bottom of the tire and adds extra grip due to the extra weight pressing down on the tread. Even better, on hard turns it keeps the tire from rolling off the bead. Best thing evar. Next race I'm going to try going from 2 quarts of water per tire to 2 gallons...

Haven't heard of anyone yet, figgie. Mine was tight as well, but it still went on.

FYI, LIPP is the house brand from Suprasport, which explains the fact that you won't find them in many places.

The fiberglass won't be entirely cured to the point that it stops emitting gas for quite some time. Depending on how much hardener you used, it could be two months. Luckily, you'll get used to it before then, so it will only be your passengers that get annoyed by the smell. :D I'm betting...

Link to his thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?84577-eraezer-Supra-MK3-89-Swedish-Build

If you want it to be easy to remove at the track, I'd suggest getting a couple big ass handles from a commercial speaker place and mounting them in cutouts on either side of the top.

Have your radiator cap pressure checked... or just replace it, they aren't expensive. If that doesn't solve it, get a block check performed.

Tell that slacker to post up your sheet, and I'll add you to the list.

I'm the pointy haired boss from Dilbert. I run the Quality Assurance group that builds automated testing for everything from little mom and pop pharmacies to massive robotic warehouses that package, label, and ship utterly ridiculous amounts of prescriptions for large pharmacy chains. I like...

12 psi on a 60-1 ct is a SHITLOAD of air. More than enough to hit boost cut, that's for sure.

Repost: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?129918-Is-this-a-raised-cowl-hood-Seems-like-it.&p=1618240&viewfull=1#post1618240

Fuck no, I wouldn't want to burn down their house. I'd hire a drill sergeant and a camera crew. Every week I'd put the best 60 minutes on youtube, and sell advertising space to gyms and healthy foods manufacturing. I'd be an internet sensation in a month, and filthy stinking rich in half a year.

Dude. Starting ANOTHER thread, after the first one was already locked for rampant ass hattery, is dangerously close to wall of shame material.

Angle that puppy and relocate the battery. Makes the car handle better by helping to fix the weight distribution and gives you a lot more room to play with for the IC pipes.

Good call on everything ... well, except for painting your nuts black. How long before it dries enough that you can walk around again? ;)

The ATI was actually significantly cheaper than buying a new one from Toyota. Looks like Toyota has dropped their price since the ATI became available. Toyota: $325 ATI: $550 The ATI is also SFI approved, in case you are racing... and you're FAST. :) The factory original ones are definitely...

That's not close enough to the body color to keep, IMO. The fashion police will hassle you mercilessly if you keep that.

After you drain it, put in a gallon or two of fresh stuff, jumper the fuel pump on the diag block, and let it run through the system to clean it out. Then drain that, too. Just be careful you don't let the pump run dry.

Both of those cars look to be really slow IMO. :)

Not sure what you mean by corroded out... if there is something wrong with a coil or lead, I'd replace it for sure. I just pull the EFI fuse from the engine fusebox for a couple minutes... that way I don't have to setup my radio presets again. :) Personally, I've always used the FPR range to...