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I wish, it's a lot to write. I'll try and post up some links to good information later to at least get started. Tim

That doesn't make sense. I know that ER80 is a better filler to use with 4130, but it would not take away the post welding heat treating requirement. The 4130 tube is still heated and taken from a normalized condition to an annealed condition making it a weaker tube. By heat treating after...

Oh, I forgot about the door bar that way. All I have been doing is road race/drifting cages, so I never look at the NHRA rulebook. So when I think 6-points, I think following the roof and a-pillar down to the floor.

So what are the 6 points that make a bar? I thought it would be the rear shock towers, b-pillar and trans tunnel, but you said trans tunnel was 7 and 8. In the not drag racing world, a 6-point is a cage, with the points being the rear shock towers, the b-pillar and the a-pillar.

Z31's can be pretty sweet, but most people suck at them, so here's some inspiration: And his build thread: http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=6734.0

Nash, you're talking about coming in through the bumper and then up through the IC and out the hood. With the air that's coming in the bumper also going through the rad and then ducted underneath the car. Right? And you will see more gains in downforce through the air going under the car...

I don't think NASCAR (at least Nextel Cup cars) are using ERW tubing on their cars, it just wouldn't make sense. I know they use mild steel though, but I would assume its DOM because it has better properties than ERW. I can check for sure, I searched around real quick and couldn't find...

What is the car being built for? Any classes? Type of racing? Etc? ERW won't be legal for any road racing and I'm not sure about drag racing, but I don't think so anymore. And I would recommend finding someone to put a cage in for you rather than buying the S&W kit. It's not that...

Boooooooo!!!!

There's more information on the benefits of a proper V-mount setup on other forums. No one on here is going to have anything. Look at RX7 forums and I've seen it on some 240 forums, actual reviews and possibly some data. Done right, it can allow for better airflow through the rad and IC...

It's real common with CCW's on MK4 supras. The reason is tire selection, which isn't as bad as it used to be but there are still more wide 17's available in the right range of overall diameter.

I'm pretty sure those are the pre-89 tie rods with the steering damper thing on there. That's what the threaded part is for because the damper attaches to one tie rod and then to the crossmember or rack or something. Tim

I'm not trying to ruin Chris' thread. I was just surprised at your response. That's all, no offense meant, sorry if you took it the wrong way. I just was hoping you had a little more detailed thought on why? Because those thoughts could contribute to the discussion that was already started...

Really? I thought you would be smarter than that.

Why do you say that? Just because that's the only one that people have definitely reported as breaking due to nylon bushing use? Personally, I wouldn't use Nylon anywhere. Besides the front uppers, it will create stresses not accounted for in the arms, it may not lead to failure right away...

Yeah, I saw those, I didn't know if there was anything else. I was thinking of gussetting the opening that the arm goes through to strengthen things and probably some other bracing. I need to pull that once I get the car inside to do the cage and figure out where I'm going to brace everything...

Nice, they look pretty good. Where is it rubbing? Front or rear or both?

Chris, Bryan, Did you guys do anything with the suspension mounting points in terms of reinforcing them. It looked like there were new welds on one of the eccentric bolt mounting points, but I couldn't tell if there was anything else. I just noticed that the rear lower control arm (rear...

With the inline 6, it just doesn't seem like the best idea. With rotaries or 4 cylinders, you have a lot more room and it can be done better. I mean I'm sure it can be done, but it's probably going to take a lot more time and money than you're expecting. Tim

$1000 is not a lot when it comes to seats. Getting a pair of seats, mounting brackets and harnesses will cost more than that unless you cheap out on something. And none of that stuff is stuff you should be cheaping out on. Didn't we have the seat discussion a couple weeks ago? I remember...