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What are the condition of the bushings in the back? The control arm bushings and the subframe bushings? If they're in bad condition, they should be replaced and that should help with wheel hop.

That looks awesome. I want to do that.

Yeah, it was cross posted in both sections. Thanks for posting the link to the other thread. I replied in there as did a bunch of other people so we'll just leave this one alone and let the other one run its course. Tim

Yeah, nylon probably isn't the best idea for suspension arm bushings. Like Asterix said, the upper arms should be fine, at least the fronts because they definitely share the same pivot axis. The rears look close but might not be perfect and if they aren't perfectly inline the suspension will...

You guys have to realize that JDM motors are junkyard motors. There's no reason to get a JDM version of something that was readily avilable here. But since you have the motor, look at what you want to do with the car, what budget you have, what you can do yourself and how much everything...

Oh ok, I see what you're talking about now. I forgot that the Z had that weird setup in the front. I haven't been able to find much information on the design or why and it's really hard to look at a picture of it and see how things move. But from what I've found, one arm is loaded in tension...

Looks like your missing a turbo.

What do you mean look like shit? Design wise? Not your taste? Beaten from use? Nothing lasts forever. Elaborate. I already said why the ebay seats suck in my post above. They're flimsy and weak. For example, trying to get something out of your pocket while in a bucket seat, a cheap...

Well then save the money until then and then buy some sways that will match or work better with whatever spring rates you get with whatever coilovers you pick.

I think those fall under the ebay crap category.

Asterix, steering offset and scrub radius are the same thing. As long as you mean front view when you're talking about steering offset. It has more of an effect under braking than turning. It will affect turning though to some extent, but pnuematic and mechanical trail have more to do with...

Bottom out what? The car on the ground? The suspension? What are you doing with the car? Just daily driving? Then save the money and keep the stock sway bars. If you're doing more with the car, I would say sell the stuff you just installed and get something better. Or just buy...

The koni's should have some kind of perch or lower spring seat. Unless you're looking at different Koni's. But the direct fit, OE replacement style stuff, should have something.

Like others said, it's not going to happen with stock springs on stock struts. They're preloaded from the factory and there is no height adjustment. And like Poodles said, I would guess that most replacement springs are going to be pretty similar. For the spring to become loose with droop...

Are you looking for buckets or reclineable seats? If you don't need FIA certification, then you can find cheaper seats than that. But you're probably still going to end up spending close to 400/seat for anything decent. Unless you go with cheap ebay stuff, but those seats are weak and flimsy.

I thought the springs had physically different mounting front and rear. So the front springs should not fit in the same perch as the rear springs. I may be wrong because I have never messed with the stock suspension on these thing. But I can check tomorrow, I still have the stock stuff around...

A good damper matched with the a good spring rate and the car should not be bouncy. A good suspension does not mean a rough or bouncy ride. If you think what you're doing with the car would justify a full drag suspension setup, then that's your choice. But I would think a well thought out...